I am a fan of TOPS Knives, this is due to the quality in their products, and the pride that Mike and Helene Fuller have in their company. To have owners that stand by their products whole-heartedly is something I trust more than the products. I have used countless knives in the field, from a multitude of brands, companies and makers. From the classic Mora, to custom knives that have cost me hundreds of dollars. Out of all of my years playing with blades, I have always been impressed by TOPS, and have stood by them.
    To me, a back-up tool should be something that is always there, capable of taking harsh abuse, and in the end, able to save your life. That being said, many companies make some very good "back-up tools", but my favourites always seem to be TOPS. So when a pair of Tactical NUKs (Nonmetallic Utility Knife) arrived at my place, I was sure that I would be able to put them to the test without complaint.
    The Tactical NUK is a spearpointed shank on steroids, being made from a Nylon-based material that is impact resistant and takes a good working edge. The overall length of the NUK is six and three-quarter inches long, with a blade standing at three and a quarter inches in length. This makes it a decent legal carry knife. What makes it more interesting is that I cannot for the life of me figure out the weight of this tool. Being a simple guy, I don't have ultra-fancy scales, and usually stick to basic kitchen scales when I want to weigh my blades. I wish my scales had a measurement that read "???", because this feather-light blade is baffling me on its' measurement.
    Needless to say, the Tactical NUK is light enough to be carried anywhere. And being made of a plastic-like material instead of steel, the NUK won't rust, won't corrode easily to weather and can remain sharp. When the NUK did dull on me, I simply used some fine wet-and-dry sandpaper on the edge and polished it back to a sharp edge. Being a plastic, you will not likely get a razor edge on the material, but even so, I filleted several trout with this little blade. Being a Nylon-material it didn't pick up any of the fish smell, and once cleaned with simple soap and water was cleaner than any of my professional fillet knives. I prepared hard vegetables such as potatoes and carrots with the Tactical NUK and even sliced several tomatoes. Tomatoes are usually complex to slice without a razor edge, but the partially serrated cutting edge of the NUK helped carve right through the tomato. As well, if you compare the NUK to a high carbon steel knife, most carbon steel knives will have corrosion marks and stains afterward. This is due to the acids of the tomato. The NUK was clean and fine even after 4 days with the tomato juices left on it. A plus for plastic-like knives!
    I shredded cardboard, paper, aluminum cans and even buckskin with the Tactical NUK, none could stand up to it. Again, it was not a scalpel, but it achieved the tasks it had to, and for something that is nothing more than Nylon-based material, that was incredible. I am not military personnel, but after discussing the values of this tool with a former Marine friend of mine in the United States, the truth of it's strength came out. The Tactical NUK is perfect as a small self defense tool. Strap it to the side of your car seat, duct tape it above your door-frame, or even hang it around your neck, and you will have a small "shank" that will make any invader or attacker think twice from just one "poke". I wouldn't start a knife fight with a Tactical NUK, but if one came to my door, I'm sure I'd be glad to have this light but fast defender on my side. I was impressed so much that I gave the second one to my girlfriend to keep on her bed-stand.
    Inside of the "Weapon" category, the value of the Tactical NUK speaks out to me as a wilderness food-gathering tool. Being lighter than metal or stone projectiles, the NUK is not a throwing knife. However I attached it to a dogwood shaft and let it loose from my Algonquin-inspired Hickory longbow. The weight was light enough that it did not detract from the accuracy of the shot. Piercing a cardboard box stuffed tightly with newspapers, the Tactical NUK became a miniature warhead, penetrating deep enough to make a decent "kill". I then lashed it to an alder staff and thrust it much like one would use a hand-spear. I then used the same spear like a javelin. Both means came out successful.
    As I examined the Tactical NUK, I had an idea. I tied a piece of inner-cord from a length of parachute cord, to the lanyard hole of the NUK. I then split the end of a willow pole and loosely lashed the NUK into place. With the Leaf-shaped profile of the Tactical NUK and the small serrations nearer the handle, I now had an optimum Harpoon for spearing fish. Both medium and large fish could easily be landed with such a weapon. However, maybe due to my Ojibway blood crying out, I decided to go for a more "Aboriginal" concept on spearing fish. I borrowed the girlfriend's NUK and lashed both it and mine to the end of the willow shaft. With two forks I now had what resembled a Chippewa fishing spear, very similar to the ones I had used to take bullfrogs, bass, and pickerel. Such a light tool, hanging around my neck by a length of parachute cord could truly mean dinner in a wilderness setting.
    You can use it as a letter opener, a potato peeler, a defense tool or even a food-catcher. You can leave it out in the weather indefinitely and return to still have a workable tool. It is so light and small that you can have it literally anywhere you feel like carrying one, and you can always stash it with your Bug-out-Bag. With so many values it is hard to argue picking up a couple of them. What makes it even harder to argue them is the price. For under fifteen dollars you can get not just one, but two of these small but mighty tools. Effective, light, inexpensive, what is left to say?

I know many people speak out against large knives, and others praise the hulking behemoths out there that happen to have a sharpened edge to them. I may write in the future about the subject of “small knife versus large knife”, but for now let's just take a look at one mighty large knife; the Power Eagle-12 by TOPS Knives.

Now, a while ago I began working on some of my own knife designs, basically kicking around in my head what would be a proper field knife for the Canadian wilderness. Over two months I tried to make a knife design that was new and basically a reinventment of the wheel. It finally came to me that it was pointless to do so. The true knives for the field are those who are inspired (or already are) traditional knives that have been in use for at least several generations. Kukris, Leukus, Bolo machetes, Pangas, Hudson Bay knives and the like are all perfect examples of traditional blades that still pack a punch in the wilderness. They are time-tested and proven to be capable of handling the field. Really all they need is a fresh start with modern materials to make them truly superior; Micarta handles, nylon or kydex sheathes, rust-protected specially treated steels, etc. Maybe a few modern concepts impregnated into the knife, and you really do have a true modern “wilderness knife”.

However, when TOPS designer Leo Espinoza developed the Power Eagle-12, he basically hit my new theory so hard on the nail that he broke the mold along with it. Leo chose to blend a Bolo machete's length and thinness with a Kukri's edge angles and forward weight. Basically put, you have the only acceptable kukri machete out there for genuine field work. I have used Kukri machetes from several brands. They are all too light to really chop well, and the forward curve is so heavily pronounced, they usually “hook” the vine or sapling rather than “snick” through it. This makes you have to exert more energy into your cuts, rendering you tired faster.

Leo's “Kuka-Bolo” concept kept the Kukri edge but had it flowing in a shallow angle, more like a leaf-shaped knife, such as a Barong. When I went out with the knife for the first time, I specifically aimed for thing springy ash and willow saplings, branches and shoots. These make a Kukri Machete your enemy pretty fast. As well, heavier knives and axes more often “bounce” off this kind of material rather than cut through it. I snipped branches, shoots and saplings with ease I had a pile of willows left over so I first wove a bedframe out of them inside a wigwam. I used the close quarters to see how efficient I could chop with little movement. Too high of a reach or big swipes, and I would tear the covering of the wigwam, rendering it useless. The control on the knife, and the lightness allowed me ease of movement, but because of that Bolo design blending well with the kukri, we now had a weight forward knife. What does that mean? Flick of my wrist and I had inch-thick saplings sheared clean, that's what.

Next I took some of the ash shoots and branches, and decided to make a smoking rack in my backyard. I often process up to 50 fish or more for the winter, needing to smoke them. Add the jerky and hide tanning that I do in the fall and you may realize the value of a smoking rack for a guy like me! I decided to make a basic tripod rack, and immediately began work. First I sharpened the ends of the three main poles, which were about two inches thick. This allows them to dig into the ground rather than slip. Next I had to find something to tie them with. Noticing a side of the old shed was overgrown with wild grape vines, I hacked all but the main one down. The main one is over three inches thick, and I felt it was of value to me, so I simply cleared off the smaller vines. I took one and used it to lash the three poles together (using a simple constrictor knot), the rest I used to lash the sidebars onto the tripod. The ash shoots were woven tightly and I now had a smoking rack that could complete all the tasks I required of it.

Wood splitting is a horse of a different colour. Machetes don't often have the weight or thickness to split heavy timber. Often they bind in mid split, and even with a baton are a pain in the butt to get through a piece of wood. The Power Eagle-12 has a nearly full-flat grind, going from a quarter inch spine down to a razor edge. This makes it like a splitting wedge. And with that twelve inch blade (hence Power Eagle-12), you now have a wedge that can chop in like and axe, and if it needs back-up with a baton, you have a lot of steel to hit.

Now many would probably like to know how this blade compares to the Ontario RTAK II. That knife has become incredibly popular among soldiers, survivalists and a lot of weekend warriors. Many claim it to be the ultimate large knife for wilderness survival and expeditions. I have also used the RTAK II in similar field work, and have to say that where the RTAK II does fail is in the weight of the blade. The handle is much heavier than the blade, which makes it good for slashing work but not for chopping, splitting or other heavy chores. Where that knife is weak, the Power Eagle-12 is strong. As well, in fine work, the Power Eagle-12 is balanced and extremely capable of detailed cutting, which is impressive for a knife with a foot long blade. I feathered sticks, shaped deadfall triggers, and even made a bowdrill kit with just the Power Eagle-12. Strong, powerful and yet capable of doing light work. This makes it a superior large knife for the field.

I examined the sheath, which was Ballistic Nylon with a plastic liner. The large pouch on the front fit multi-tools, sharpening tools and even a mini-survival kit in an Altoid tin. Wearing the sheath directly on my belt was comfortable, and very little thigh-slapping was felt when the sheath was not lashed to my leg. However upon tying the sheath against my thigh, the knife was now stationary and stable. I am not a fan of this method of carrying a knife, because in some circumstances it can constrict bloodflow to the lower leg, especially in cold weather. However many suggest this method, and if one wishes to do so with the Power Eagle-12, fear not, for it does the task well. If you are like me and don't like tying a sheath to your leg, feel free not to, because the sheath does not sway enough to make the thigh slapping (if any) noticeable.

Along with the Power Eagle-12, a small knife in a kydex sheath was included. This knife being the ALRT-XL with a skeletonized handle. I filleted over a dozen bass, trout and pickerel with the ALRT-XL, and quickly noted how well the simple straight-edge did (much like the front edge of a tanto). I easily sharpened the ALRT-XL without needing to worry about a belly or rounded tip. The little blade cut like a scalpel, and I used her for detailed work on many tasks, such as skinning small game, carving the small notch for a small deadfall trigger meant for squirrel, and even preparing food. The combination of a large knife with a small knife is my favourite cutting tool choice. They go together so well, and the ALRT-XL was a perfect partner for the Power Eagle-12.

As I began to work more around the house during a one week hiatus, I remembered the Power Eagle-12 was based on two knives that were from Pacific/Indian Ocean cultures. These cultures use the knife for not just field work, but house chores such as preparing dinner. With my girlfriend over, I decided to make her a special dinner, using only the Power Eagle-12. I finely chopped herbs, crushed and diced garlic, and even trimmed and cut peppers for the salad. Using the Power Eagle-12 alone, I made a Sirloin Steak dinner, with Salad, Sweet Potato Fritz, and even made a blueberry vinaigrette for the salad (this meant dicing the herbs, and squashing the blueberries). She was extremely satisfied with the dinner, and I was extremely satisfied with the functional ability of the Power Eagle-12. Sadly she asked me not to wear it at the dinner table. I suppose my dinner etiquette requires more work, but luckily the Power Eagle-12 doesn't work hard for the dinner.

I kept thinking about the Power Eagle-12 over the next few days, remembering that I was located not in the area this knife's origins are. I live in a temperate Canadian forest, not a tropical rainforest, a desert island nor a bamboo woodland. Yet this Kuka-bolo handled itself incredibly well in my terrain and climate. I thought about where the knife was made; 100% in the United States of America. Though the micarta handle was comfortable and the blade was sharp and durable, I felt it strange to have a knife whose two parents (the Kurki and the Bolo) were meant for a climate completely different from mine, not get tested with materials from those regions. I found a thick piece of bamboo that I used in the past for fire-saw kits, and I bought a few coconuts.

The densely polished bamboo has been in my garage for two years now, and was in Chinatown in Toronto for Lord knows how long. It usually scratches rather than cuts when I use a Bowie, saw or axe on it; skidding the edge off almost harmlessly. Only my Parangs and very well made machetes ever cut through it. I took aim and struck, biting deep into the long seasoned tropical wood. The flat grind of the Power Eagle-12 releasing from the cut with barely any hesitation if any, leaving a cut over an inch and a half deep and two inches down the bamboo. I aimed and struck again, popping a large chunk right off the section. I checked the edge on a piece of paper, remembering exactly where on the edge I cut the bamboo. No drag or ragged cutting was found, just a smooth slice through the paper.

I set the coconuts on my deck railing, aiming right along the “spine of the eel” as the Samoans explain it. One solid flick of my wrist, assisted by some leverage from my elbow cracked each coconut easily. After pouring the juice of the coconut into a bowl I used the tip of the Power Eagle-12 to scrape out the meat into a saucepan filled with water. The tip of this kuka-bolo design easily grated the meat and now simmering I had the beginnings of Coconut milk, which I later used as the base of my Labrador tea rather than water (I may be using a tropically inspired knife, but I am a Canadian woodsman, so I just had to make it into Labrador tea!).

With such a robust blade that is strong, sharp, and has weight in all of the right places, it is easy to already understand the value in it. However add that the durable micarta handle is ergonomic and balanced, and that the entire knife is extremely light for such a large knife with a thick spine, and you begin to truly see it's worth. Now add that it has a sheath with a comfortable belt loop and a secure pouch for extra goods, plus a handy extra blade such as the ALRT-XL, and you now know why I enjoy being the owner of such a versatile and efficient tool.

TOPS calls the Power Eagle-12 a “Hand Power Tool”. With a lot of sales pitches out there, and countless slogans, it's hard to believe any of them. However Mike Fuller, Leo Espinoza and the rest of the TOPS team can truly make you trust their slogans and statements about many of their knives; “Special Ops trust TOPS”, “TOPS Knives are hard to the core”, “A Hand Power Tool”. These aren't cute little sayings that are just simple jingles folks. These are words that I support and believe in. And the Power Eagle-12 is something to believe in. In the jungle, on a desert island or in the heart of the Canadian Boreal forest, this Kuka-bolo innovation is at home anywhere.

The small knife versus the large knife:

Analyzing the value of knife sizes in a wilderness setting.

The one tool almost all survival skills enthusiasts and bushcrafters seem to focus on over any other is the knife. Discussions about trapping methods, blankets, tents and fire starting devices are set aside whenever the “knife talk” begins at any campfire. To many this has become a dull discussion, more of an ego-fueled debate amongst men who must compromise for either their lack of genuine skill or something else along those lines. To others however, this subject has become an obsession, which plagues their minds daily. I know some men that have awoken from a fitful sleep, just to describe to me a new knife design that popped into their head in mid-slumber. I suppose it is a passion that I have fueled for myself, testing and handling literally hundreds of designs from countless brands and companies, with an unheard variety of steels and handle materials. When I ran out of knife brands I wanted to play with I commissioned custom knife makers to make me new ones!

Over time I have gotten a sense of what I consider a good knife. However that flows with the more I learn. I explain to many people that the perfect survival knife is the Holy Grail for almost anyone interested in Survival, Bushcraft or any other form of outdoor skills. People want it, and strive for it constantly, but it is unlikely to ever be found. Why? Because someone won't like it. Sure, you may get a few hundred fanatics, but then the critics will be found. This is not a criticism on either side. I have a few knives that many people hate. And many out there have a few knives I hate. A knife is a personal choice, that must suit the user, and not the masses.

However, the one argument that never seems to go away is the debate between a large knife and a small knife. This debate comes from a long history of doctrine, based more on opinion and theory than fact. I am speaking about both sides, so no, I am not attacking any one knife size. Yes, there are indeed medium sized knives, however the big argument seems to focus on the smaller belt knives and the larger knives. The two extremes interestingly enough!

Now, before I go any further, I want to make it clear that I do not flow with one opinion or the other. I carry both large and small knives, and for certain situations (which I will explain later), I prefer one over the other. I am not a devout of any knife dogma out there, especially when it comes to size, and if anyone tries to tell me what I must do to be “right” I will always politely smile, nod and continue on the way I choose to. Why? Because a knife is a personal thing, and no two people are alike.

To fully understand the differing opinions on knife size, you need to understand the minds that such opinions originate from. The two opinions stretch far back, and as mentioned before, have become dogmatic “rules” among the “cliques” of such mindsets.

Let us explain the origins of those that carry a small knife first. Among many cultures in the Northern hemisphere, an axe was -and is still- carried throughout the wilderness. This, coupled with a saw, could perform all the heavy chores. From felling tall lodegpole pines for shelter frames, to splitting firewood, to even butchering moose. In such situations, the need for a knife was small tasks. Such tasks included skinning of game, dicing of vegetables, shaping wood into spoons, toggles. Trap pieces and such. The job did not ask for a cumbersome blade, but a light and small knife capable of doing delicate work. Besides, in such cold weather, a large knife is prone to damage, due to being thinner than the axe.

Now of course, there will be some exceptions to the rule, such as the Inuit Snow knife, and the Swedish Leuku Knife. But even these are not considered extremely large. Most of these Northern climate large knives are light, and not made to do more than cut meat. One knife design however that originated many years ago was the “Big Camp Knife”. Not as ancient as the Leuku, but capable of doing many things. There are even written records of Metis Buffalo Hunters cutting down standing dead pine trees, with their Hudson Bay Knives, for firewood, They immediately sectioned the wood and split it into kindling. Soon after (in these accounts), a buffalo would have been shot nearby and the men -without sharpening or even stropping their big knives- would set off to skin, quarter and butcher the bison. Obviously this shows what a large knife was capable of in a region where mostly smaller knives were carried. Later, the Bowie knife came into being, and that is when North America's fascination with big knives really seemed to stem from.

However, the large knife has it's oldest history in tropical regions. Be it a Panga, Parang, Golok, Bolo or other type of Machete, a long blade -sometimes thin and sometimes thick- has been used and is still used by almost every Tropical culture in the world. Even “uncontacted tribes” are often photographed with steel machetes in South America. The long blade in these regions was not fighting dense or frozen wood, but dealing with springy saplings, tough bamboo and snaky vines. Such material would just bounce or deflect an axe. However, the thin, long blade could slash more than chop, making it more effective. This made it superior to the axe in almost all tropical climates.

Now, due to soldiers and explorers, the larger knives of the tropics began to get more attention over time. Notice how during the Second World War the United States began to pick up Machetes? This was due to the war in the South Pacific. As well, any expedition story of South America or Africa eventually mentions a machete-like knife being used. By the Vietnam War, the Malaysian Parang and Latin Machete were becoming common-place blades for soldiers from different nations. Combine America's ancestry of the Bowie and Canada's history of the Hudson Bay Knife, and you can see why the Machete and other large knives were quickly taken by the civilians as “outdoor knives” for our woods.

Jump ahead by a few decades and we now have the modern era, where gentlemen become lunatics if someone disagrees with their knife choice. Some men believe they can do anything and everything with a giant knife, whereas others believe they can do anything and everything with a knife under fives inches of blade. Very few will agree with the others' points, and so they continue to bicker and even consider the other morons. Let us listen to the arguments and truly break them down by each point;

A large knife can carve just as well as a small knife. While I appreciate a “Can do” attitude, this is not the case. Yes, I have feathered kindling with a parang, shaped deadfall triggers with a kukri, and even pothangers with a machete. However, the results were not as sharp and crisp as the results made with my Swedish knives, or pocket knives. I cannot shape a mask with a knife that is twelve inches long as well as I can with a small carving knife.

A small knife can do large tasks easily. I hear this from many people. Each time, they remind me of what certain Bushcraft instuctors have done with Mora knives; cutting down wrist thick willows, splitting wood with a baton, felling 9 inch trees using the “can opener” method. All of these take considerable amount of energy, time and even strength. Though it all can be done, they are not as easy and simply chopping into the wood with a machete. Comparing the 3-5 seconds it takes me to cut through a wrist thick willow tree with a small knife to the 1 second it takes to slice through the same willow with a large knife might seem like splitting hairs, but consider it this way. If you were to make a large arch-dome shelter, or weave a smoking rack, or make a “ brush raft”, the amount of time and energy would matter to you. The 2-4 second difference starts to add up after a few hours, especially in a survival situation where you may be lacking in food, sleep or water. Suddenly splitting all of that wood for your fire becomes annoying after the fiftieth batoning.

A large knife is only carried by greenhorns. This is not just wrong, it's an insult to a lot of people. I know several old-timers who carry knives with blades longer than 7 inches. I also have studied enough aboriginal cultures in the world to be able to say “Go ahead, tell a South American native he's a greenhorn because of that machete of his” with utter confidence.

A small knife is carried by Liberal Hippies, not real survivalists. Usually said by those that just got called greenhorns. If Mors Kochanski is a Hippy I would be surprised. Not shocked, just impressed to find out. I'm quite sure many survivalists out there would like to picture the man they learned at least half a dozen things from as an unknowing idiot, not a real survivalist. By the way, little known fact, Liberals (the politicians at least) rarely carry a knife of any size on them, they just spend a lot of money on trying to find out via polls whether it is right or wrong to even know what a knife is.

A large knife is a clumsy tool, And this is truly the meat and potatoes of the anti-Large knife argument. Most people consider a large knife not as easy to use for precision work. They think such a long knife is going to miss the target and go straight into their shin or kneecap. This to me is a valid point. A large knife is capable of badly injuring you. And without a lot of practice and common sense, a large knife will injure you. However, with experience, a large knife becomes a precision tool like any other. As well, this “clumsy” feeling is caused by the knifemaker improperly balancing the knife. I have one custom Parang and a production-line “Heavy Machete”. Both of which are so well balanced, that I can look at a willow and “snip” off branches effortlessly, to clean up my stands of willows (makes them healthier and better for future uses). As well, I can sit there with both knives and do decent detailed shaping of wooden implements. I can split and carve a cedar log into a bowdrill kit with the same knife. To me, a survival-oriented knife must be capable of that, and that makes a large, balanced knife precious to the survivor.

A small knife is useless in a wilderness setting. The meat and potatoes of the anti-Small knife argument. The claim is that a small knife can't do anything useful when you are in the outdoors. However, wherever precision is needed, a small knife is superior. Whether it is gutting a fish, skinning a deer, shaping a fishing spear, or making the more complex traps, I prefer a small knife. It just does the job better. Yes, it can't chop down trees, or split wood as fast as a large knife, but it can do everything the big knife can't do.

And that really is the point ladies and gentlemen. A small knife can do what a big knife can't, and a big knife can do what a small knife can't. To me, they should both be carried; the large knife on your belt, the small one around your neck. However, that is for general purpose fieldwork. Many people however always ask the question of “what if you are lost and could only have one cutting tool with you?”.

The answer to that in my opinion is simple; I will have a large, balanced knife. With a large knife I can make my shelter, make my fire and fuel it. With my large knife I can quickly fashion a digging stick and a rabbit stick. With these two items I can begin to search for food. With my large knife I can make basic (but rough) implements. However, to me, the large knife's true value is that it can provide me shelter and fire. Those are what I need to stay alive here in the woods of Ontario Canada. Water is everywhere, and if I have fire, I can clean the water, so fire and shelter are the most important. Add that a large knife can give me those faster and with less energy spent than a small knife.

However, the only time I only have one knife on me in the wilds, is when I am simulating a survival situation. Any other time, and I have two of them on me at least, if not three (I like to carry a Swiss army knife or other folding knife in my shirt pocket for little tasks like peeling apples or gutting a bass).

So where is the situation that I like to have just a small knife? When I am in an urban environment. Carrying my parangs or other large knives is usually not acceptable in the city or towns that I go to. I will often then, carry a knife within perfectly legal limits (check your by-laws folks). In most of Ontario, a knife must be under six inches to be legally carried. I make myself less of a police target by wearing an even smaller knife such as an “EDC Neck Knife”, or simply my Swiss army knife

The point of this writing is simple; use clear thought when it comes to what knife you decide to carry, and honestly, the next time you criticize someone for carrying a knife whose size you think wrong, shut up, and watch how they use it. If you see a man using a machete to delicately carve a pair of chopsticks for his evening meal, or see a lady split thigh thick wood down to kindling with a neck knife, then maybe you just learned something.

I have seen videos covering every imaginable primitive trap. From bow traps to simple peg-deadfall triggers. Some of these traps are ingenious and function beautifully in the Canadian woods, like snares and Sampson posts. Whereas others do not function as well, like a deadfall or spear trap.

Sadly many people do not study and research primitive traps, and simply regurgitate what was taught to them from a book or basic survival course. Usually from people who are also regurgitating the information. This makes it almost Dogmatic Law, which you don't want to argue; like deadfalls in Canada (out of ten years, I have had two deadfalls succeed at what about 100 snares have done just as well). That being said, some people don't look into the history of the traps. One perfect example is the Ojibway Bird Snare.

Maybe it's my Ojibway blood, or maybe it's just my interest in primitive trapping, but I have become a little obsessed with this trap over the years. Using weighted snare (or a snare attached to a spring pole), the trap catches a bird alive, holding them firmly against a pole for you to retrieve. The set up is very simple, yet takes some detailed wood working to do.

The four pieces to this trap are;

-a pole with a hole bored into it. This hole must be smooth enough for a snare cord to go through without resistance. Kochanski's method of “cutting” a hole into wood rather than “drilling” is best. The very top of the pole should be pointed, to prevent birds landing there rather than on the trigger.

-A trigger stick. Long enough to afford a perch to a landing bird. It plugs the hole, keeping the snare from sliding shut until triggered. Upon weight being applied to the trigger, it releases, allowing the weight to pull the snare shut.

-A snare. This must be a cord. Snare wire is often too rigid to function properly, and often I have seen the wire snap in mid-action. Inner strands of parachute cord works very well. My favorite natural cordage for this trap is Dogbane. However any strong, flexible cord will do the job. In the photos, I am using Basswood (Tilia) bark twine.

-A weight mechanism. This can be a bent sapling, or better yet, a rock tied directly to the snare via a Killick Hitch. This -when triggered- will yank the snare shut around the feet of the perching bird. The rock method is superior, because it can't freeze into position as easily as a bent sapling. This means in cold weather, the rock-weighted Ojibway Bird Snare can be often used with more effectiveness.

This is requires quite a lot of carving, and experimentation to get just right. However once set up, the system is easy to maintain, and requires little to no actual adjustments.

Put together, the trap looks like this;

And a closeup of the trigger system with the snare;



Note the sharpened tip to the pole, to prevent landing on top.

I like to add a snare toggle to my snare cords, this can be seen better in this photo;

The snare toggle helps prevent the cord from flying out of the trap when triggered. This means the bird won't as likely have its' legs broken when captured. More humane, the more I like the trap. As well, it also strengthens the cord, and if a simple overhand knot is used on the loose end of the cord, the snare toggle makes it simple to make a snare without needing a bowline, or other fancy knots. This means in cold weather I can easily set these up.

The basic trap set up is fairly simple, however it does take some practice to set the trigger into the post snuggly enough to secure the snare cord in place. Often the rock weight wants to tug it shut even when the trigger is set properly. Some try to remedy this by adding a knot to the cord, to stop the sliding. Do not do this. This often causes the trap to not work right at all, often jamming up when triggered. Simply make the tapered end of the trigger stick as snug as possible, and push it in tightly. That's all you can do to make sure this trap works right.

Good baits for such a trap are;

-Berries

-Grains

-Breadstuffs

-Suet

-Birch buds (late winter)

-Tamarack needles (winter)

Now, let us watch this in action. My younger cousin offered to use his fingers as pigeon legs for our demonstration;

The trap is set;

The bird lands, its' weight causing the trigger stick to dislodge from the post;

The trap is sprung, and the legs of the bird are now firmly stuck against the post;

Sound simple right? Well it is. Now scatter bird feed like berries, grains and even suet around the ground below the trap, and set it in a sunny location.

Now, what is this trap made to catch? Obviously it goes for perching birds, and not ground birds. I doubt a grouse would get captured by this, unless I spooked the bird up onto the trap, as they are more often found on the ground, and usually only go up into the trees when roosting, or startled.

So it is meant for a perching bird. Well what kind of perching birds? Would the Ojibway really go through all of this trouble for a couple of grosbeaks and chickadees? Maybe a whiskeyjack, but many n some stories, and being their close friend in the winter time). Ojibway considered that bird too sacred to kill (being the representation of Nanabush i

Perhaps a little history lesson will help explain this trap and it's reason for existing...

The Anishnaube people (Ojibwa, Ojibwe, Ojibway, Chippewa, etc) lived from Minnesota, up into Ontario Canada for hundreds of years. During the early to mid 1700s, the native population of Southern Ontario (pre-Ojibway occupation) was mostly wiped out from devastating diseases like Small Pox and Tuberculosis. Those that survived, fled south and north, leaving the entire area alone for about 50 years or more. During this time a certain bird had a population boom happen, due to the lack of human predation on them and because of lack of competition for food (wild berries and grains). This bird was the one pictured below;



This is known as the Passenger Pigeon. Whose numbers rivaled that of the buffalo to the west. A single flock of them could be up to two billion birds. Because of their numbers, the Ojibway, who now entered a forest completely empty of people, had a simple and easy means of food with no competition.
The Passenger Pigeon would perch before landing on the ground to feed, much like rock pigeons and mourning doves do. This would allow the Ojibway an easy trapping of food to supply the people. This trap evolved specifically to harvest Passenger Pigeons, who were large birds (bigger than the rock pigeon we are all used to) and in greater numbers than any other food resource.

However, upon the destruction of the Passenger Pigeon's population, this trap become next to obsolete and useless. Yes, it can occasionally trap a perched bird, but not as easily as it once had. Trap methods like the Arapuca Bird Trap, and the Grouse Snare have surpassed this ancient snare. However, in areas where pigeons and doves are in high population, this trap can still be used quite effectively.

   Winter in the Canadian wilds is a complex subject, which cannot be covered in a book, let alone a single article. Due to the vast challenges that are unique to winter, being combined with the variety of climates Canada has to offer, it is very difficult to generalize it enough to make basic guidelines. Due to this, this article will focus on winter in Ontario Boreal forest. In this scenario, it will be February, with a deep amount of snow (well over one metre deep) and has remained colder than negative fifteen degrees centigrade. Dangers at this time of year in such a region include but are not limited to; hypothermia, dehydration, frostbite and snow blindness.
    
    With deep snow covering the majority of otherwise accessible supplies, the woods wanderer must learn to adapt to the frigid temperatures with intellect and proper equipment. The most immediate danger is hypothermia, which can set in as soon as three hours or less, depending on the situation. Proper clothing and layering is a must. Avoid cottons, simply because the moment the cotton material is wet, it loses over 90% of its’ insulative value. The moisture can come from falling into a creek, snow melting through the clothes, or simply perspiration (sweat). Wool is heavy, but its’ insulative value is second to none. It is breathable and capable of remaining extremely warm, even when soaked. Breathable is better than waterproof in the dead of winter, simply because of the dryness of the air. Remember, this is February in northern Ontario. The biggest danger of waterproof clothes in such a situation is that perspiration will remain in the clothes and near the body, making the woods wanderer colder than they would have been if dry. Take note that even with modern waterproof materials, many northern native peoples still prefer buckskins, woollens and even canvas. Why? Because these fabrics breathe. Cotton should still be avoided due to perspiration, but expensive modern waterproof breathable like Gore-tex are not necessary.
    
    Several layers should be worn, between three and five layers. Five being optimum for extreme cold. The layer closest to the skin should be soft and light. Modern merino wools and polyester “micro-fleece” are incredible as this “Base Layer”. The next three layers should be exceedingly thicker. The final layer should have large pockets, a hood with fur trim (ideally from a wild canine, as their fur shed snow and ice-build up exceptionally well), and cuffs that can prevent snow from getting in. The classic winter parka is a perfect example.
    
    At least three pairs of wool socks is almost mandatory in such an environment. Again, thinnest and softest sock closest to the foot, thickest one closest to the boot. There are several means of footwear for winter. One choice is the classic heavy duty winter boot with a felted wool liner that can be removed and replaced when wet. This can be made from rubber, plastics, or a vast catalogue of different materials, and personal choice is often difficult to render the “perfect” winter boot. Another option is to wear a regular boot inside what is called an “Overboot”.  An overboot is simply a piece of footwear that protects the boot and foot from the extreme cold, and occasionally (depending on material its’ made from) from moisture. Such footwear coverings comes in a great variety. If money is strict, a good choice are cheap army surplus “Tent Boots” which are nothing more than a quilted nylon legging attached to a traction tread. These go good with a pair of knee-high moccasins. Another option if money is more loose are the Neo brand of overboots. Avoid steel toe boots, as steel conducts heat away from the body.
    
    A woolen watch cap or skull cap, combined with a large thickly insulated hat. Cossack hats are a great choice for extreme cold, again, fur is very good as shedding snow and very insulative.  A balaclava (also known as a ski mask) is extremely valuable for the colder days, when the face is exposed to frostbite situations. A thick, long scarf is warm, comfortable and helpful (used as a sling, a rope, a packstrap, etc). Finally -clothing wise- a pair of wool gloves inside a large pair of mittens is invaluable. Finger can lose feeling quickly in cold weather, especially if in tight fitting handwear. Due to that, wear comfortably fittinf thin wool gloves inside large roomy mittens. If one takes note of the mittens worn by northern peoples, there is usually a cord attached from one mitten to the other. This is often attributed to the fact that such large mitts can easily fall off. The cord helps prevent that. As well, with the gloves and mitten combination, one can slip their hands out of the mitts for more intricate tasks (tying, untying, cutting, etc) without having to put down their mittens anywhere.

    Outside of clothing, fire and shelter are precious, but those can be described to better detail in other articles. Simply remember to find dry firewood, and that the shelter must be able to keep ones’ body warm as well as dry.

    Travelling for firewood, food, supplies or other things in snow that is powder or loosely packed is difficult. The foot just seems to break right through. This can slowly but surely exhaust the woods wanderer and overtime saturate the feet with melted snow.  Skis are often used in Europe and much of Northern North America by descendants of Europeans. However, the thick woods of the Boreal are often too dense to easily trek through wearing cross country skis. On the other hand, a well made pair of snowshoes are invaluable in the Ontario north. Snowshoe distribute the weight of the wearer, to lessen the depth of snow they have to walk through. After a few hours using snowshoes, new timers will often feel sore in the thighs, hips and knees. However after a few days on the trail, snowshoeing becomes as natural as a leisurely stroll.

    For such a region, there are several designs that are better than others. The classic Beavertail snowshoe, though good, is not best.  Bearpaw, Ottertrail, and Ojibwa snowshoe designs are far superior. The absolute best is the modified or “elongated” Bearpaw Snowhoe. This design is superior due to the length (allowing better strides and weight distribution) , the rounded heel and toe (making it manoeuvrable in the dense woods) and all around lightness. The design is so well thought of, that the majority of “modern” snowshoes, made from carbon fibre, Kevlar, aluminum, titanium and other contemporary materials use the Elongated  Bearpaw snowshoe. Now of course this is mostly an opinion that can be argued by anyone who uses another type of snowshoe. However each snowshoe has been designed for a specific region, and the three mentioned (Bearpaw, Ottertrail, Ojibwa) are ones that suit the Ontario Boreal forest perfectly. Experimentation with different models is the key to perfecting the right snowshoe for the right climate and terrain.

    There are some who argue that modern snowshoes are superior to the traditional wood and rawhide snowshoe, whilst others argue the reverse. The truth is that both have merit and both have drawbacks. The modern snowshoe is lighter, often stronger and some even fold up to fit inside a small rucksack. However if they break in the woods, it is very difficult to repair them. On the other hand, a heavy, cumbersome pair of  “Hickory’n’Hide” snowshoes can be repaired and even replaced by an individual well experienced with a knife and axe.

    W. Ben Hunt describes in his book “The Complete How-to Book of Indiancraft: 68 projects for authentic Indian articles from Tepee to Tom-tom” how to make what he called the “Alaskan Eskimo Snowshoe”. This is in fact the Ojibwa Snowshoe, otherwise known as the Cree Snowshoe. Regardless of which first nation it is titled after, the book shows a good template on how to make these rugged, effective pair of snowshoes. If such a pair is unable to be made, he also shows how to make “Wooden Snowshoes”, which are boards of wood (basswood or ash preferably) that are shaped like elongated Bearpaw snowshoes, and the toe steam bent into an upward curve. This upward curve is needed in any snowshoe, to help it lift over the snow, rather than get dug into it.

    In the woods, snowshoes can be made by simply lashing evergreen boughs to ones’ feet. Though these are not the best choice, if no other choice is capable, than the evergreen boughs must suffice. The best are the wicker snowshoe. This requires two large piles of thin shrubby plants, such as dogwood, willow or even wild grapevine. Simply weave the materials into two large circles, making the hoops out of several sticks at a time (like wicker). Afterwards make a base inside of these circles by pushing sticks through, making a crude, but very effective snowshoe. There are as many ways to make a pair of snowshoes as there are people wanting to make them. So researching and experimenting is paramount.

    On such a large layer of white, like a winter field or forest, the surface is able to reflect a great deal of sunlight. Over between a few minutes and a few hours of exposure to so much bright light, the eyes can begin to feel like sand is being poured over them. This painful sensation can continue for days, even after tears and cold compresses. What caused it? The Ultraviolet light reflecting off the snow slowly caused photokeratitis, which is basically a sunburn to the retinas. It is said that fresh snow reflects eighty percent of UV rays, compared to sand or ocean water (both reflect under thirty percent). Commonly called “Snow Blindness” it can be detrimental and must be prevented at all costs.

    The Inuit people carved (and still do carve) antler, bone and ivory goggles to combat. These are made by shaping the material to the shape of the head, to fit comfortably over the eyes. Narrow slits are cut horizontally where the eyes are, and the insides are either painted or charred black. This cuts down on a great deal of UV light, the snow goggles acting like squinted eyelids, and the blackened insides absorbing the light rather than allowing it to remain bright. A pair can be made in under two hours with a light piece of wood such as cedar, poplar or basswood. The Inuit snow goggle must fit snugly to the face if they are to work properly. Therefore it is best to make them rather than buy them, to make sure they fit perfectly.

    Ski goggles, or smoke-tinted lenses on sunglasses are modern alternatives. However it has been noted by many outdoors experts that such goggles or sunglasses either let the ultra violet light in from the sides, or fog up, and many suggest the traditional wear of the Inuit people.
    
    If prevention against snow blindness does not prevail, seek medical aide. If that is not possible, bed rest with cold compresses and “artificial tears” to help hydrate the eyes is the best means of recovery.

    Protecting the skin from windburn and frostbite is crucial. Frostbite is the freezing and damaging of the dermal layers (skin). This can lead to severe pain, and if not treated by doctors, can lead to nasty infections. Again, prevention is heavily important. Many native peoples and northern explorers have used grease, rendered from animals. Covering the skin with these processed oils helps cut down on wind-chill and even protects against frostbite. Pilots in the First World War often used petroleum jelly for similar reasons. Wearing a face mask such as a balaclava is a good tip as well.

    Facial hair catches moisture from breathing and freezes. This leads to a great deal of frostbite cases on the face. Regular shaving helps cut down on this danger. Facial hair does not provide a great deal of insulation in the first place, so do not feel bad about cutting off. Some anthropologists believe this is why Native peoples did not often grow facial hair, same with many other northern peoples.  Exposure to such a frigid environment could perfectly well make the bodies adapt to not grow hair around the mouth and nose, just as well as it adapted the typical Inuit to their frigid environment (barrel chest with large nasal cavities to heat the arctic air).

    In high stress, the human body produces greater amounts of Urea. This toxic compound is removed from the body via urinating. In frigid weather, the body is definitely being stressed, and due to this a greater amount of water must be consumed, to help prevent dehydration or urea-poisoning. Fresh snow is usually only 10% water, the rest of it being air. Due to this, eating snow will make the woods wanderer often thirstier. Melt the snow by any means possible, whether it be by melting over a fire, near a fire, or inside the shelter. Drink it warm, and if possible make it into tea to assist in acquiring vitamins and electrolytes. Scurvy is a common plight in the north during winter. To prevent this, constant intake of vitamin C is required. This can be done by making tea out of pine needles, cedar needles or any other edible evergreen. The Labrador tea plant is another option, being an evergreen marsh plant that is very common in the north woods that is rich with vitamin C.

    A great deal of preparation, practice and prevention is involved in a safe time in the winter woodlands. However, when one takes into consideration how much more time would be involved trying to fix the problem versus simply preventing it, one can see how simple of a life it really is, even in the wintertime. Living in the wilderness when the snow is on the ground, the lakes are frozen and the woods are silent is a peaceful, beautiful experience very few ever witness. To simply snowshoe out with a toboggan loaded with the right gear and the right food (high calories with a great emphasis on fats, carbs and proteins) is an amazing adventure that more of us should try this coming winter.  

    Hatchets, tomahawks and other "portable/belt axes" are an interesting controversy in the outdoors field. In many cases, they are rarely discussed due to the belief that they are dangerous. Whereas in other circles the subject is argued over by what many call "Survival Snobs", to the point that if you don't own a specially made tomahawk by so-and-so, you aren't a real outdoorsperson. In my line of work, I've relied on "portable axes" to achieve many tasks. Yes, a full sized axe is safer due to the length (often hitting dirt before a shin), and has better power for all around chopping (again due to the length). However, for ease of light carrying, the chopping of small trees and splitting of general firewood, I have found nothing better then a large knife or a small axe, such as a hatchet or tomahawk. The other category, where "this axe is the only one to go by" is ridiculous. There are so many different unsung axe models out there, and they need to have the light shone on them. One such axe, I am proud to have been testing for the past few months.

    The TOPS OX-06 (standing for Outfitter Ax-06) is without a doubt a new take on an ancient tool. Made of 1095 high carbon steel, the edge on this axe is nasty-sharp. The grip is made from micarta, making the design light, but extremely durable. That being said, the concept of this axe was to accomplish as many tasks as a hunting guide or outfitter would find in their daily chores list, without costing the user any weight issues. Weighing in at thirty ounces, and under fifteen inches in length, this is a small but mighty chopping tool. The blade sports an oval-shaped hole in the center of the blade, that causes a tuning fork ringing with each chop, reminding me of any swordfight in a movie. An exposed lanyard hole hangs at the bottom of the OX-06, and comes complete with a parachute cord lanyard. Finally, the axe is complete with a kydex sheath.

    Being made from 1095 steel, it is no surprise that the OX-06 is able to shave hair only after a few licks on a ceramic rod. However, the flexible strength of the steel makes this hatchet able to contend with machetes, parangs and goloks in the quick "snipping" ability. After flicking countless willow shoots to make fish basket traps, I decided to try it on bigger fish. I cut down half a dozen basswood trees, each around fifteen centimeters (six inches) thick. This was to get me a few months' supply of bark fiber for projects, as well as good carving wood for future bowdrills, spoons, and other little items. When it came to splitting, the OX-06 handled the same wood I split with a tomahawk or large knife. But the oval hole in the blade is what interested me the most. Slipping a finger through this, I now had a means to grip the blade for control. Though the cutting edge was straight instead of curved, this grip reminded me of an ulu, and when I used it to peel the skin off of a deer leg and clean some fish, I knew I had a winner for hunting and fishing trips. With one tool, I could make my fishing pole to catch my dinner, prep my dinner, and split the firewood for cooking my dinner. Fantastic! 

    Out of all of the axes and their relatives, I have never found a sheath that came with them that was secure. Even with my high-end Gransfors axe, the sheath only lasted until the spring after it was purchased. Leather, canvas, cordura nylon, I've used them all, and none last. More so, the majority let water sit inside and rust the cutting edge. However, Kydex is weatherproof, and extremely durable. Being cut proof, there is less chance of the blade getting exposed. Being secure, there is less chance of the OX-06 falling out of its' sheath and becoming a danger. As well, the sheath makes it next to impossible for water to remain inside, due to plastic not being absorbent to water or most fluids (or any fluid that I know of). It comes with a secure belt clip, allowing ease of removal from the belt, rather than having to undo the belt.

    After a week straight in the woods, I looked at the OX-06 and examined it for any damage. It had blazed literally over a kilometer of trail, split a week's worth of firewood, and prepared supper on several occasions. The TOPS OX-06 is rarely spoken of among Bushcrafters and Survivalists, and I consider that a great shame. Its' value should not be ignored, in fact, I've heard stories of soldiers using the OX-06 overseas during urban warfare to break through doors (including the metal hinges). Though I doubt I'll need to bust through an entranceway anytime, that shows the durable integrity of the OX-06. To me, it is a fantastic belt axe, anda wonderful woodland companion.

By Caleb Musgrave

    The designs of knives in the world now are at such a vast variety, that if you think you need a new knife, it may make you a little dizzy. This goes especially for people seeking “Survival Knives”, or what I like to call “Survival-oriented knives”. Such a knife should be able to do the lion’s share of the survivor‘s chores. These tasks could include; constructing shelters, cutting and splitting firewood, shaping hunting implements, cutting rope, dressing and skinning of wild game, and -in extreme situations- the killing of a wild animal.  
    The problem that is often found with survival-oriented knives is that they do one of two things. Either they do some of the tasks really well and do poorly at the other tasks, or they don’t do any of the tasks well at all. Knives designed specifically for military/tactical applications are often carried as survival-oriented knives by both civilians and military personnel. So are many bowie styled knives, with tall clip points. I have carried many models of such knives, and have found many of them wanting.
    The majority of tasks a tactical knife will be used for rarely involve using it in combat. Though that is a possibility, most military personnel use their knife for more average applications, such as prying, chopping, piercing and slashing. Many military knives have a narrow stick tang. The most famous one, the standard USMC combat knife, has a very narrow tang, which allows distortion and twisting of the knife in its handle under strenuous use. As well, these knives often have a very tall clip point on their tip. This weakens the tip severely, so that piercing and prying can be jeopardized.
    As well, many of these blades have saw blades along the spine. If a sawback was made to be used ergonomically, and be strong enough to take the abuse many of us outdoors folk seem to put our blades through, I would consider them worthwhile. Very few knife designs have a decent sawback. Sometimes the saw goes too close to the tip, weakening the tip so that any hammering with a baton, or any prying will snap it clean off. On other knife designs, the teeth of the saw are flimsy, easily being damaged under excessive use or abuse. As well, other designs make the handle and sawback too uncomfortable to work in unison. Finally, some sawbacks are just too dull (being more for fashion than function) to be used in the field.
    None of this applies to the TOPS Steel Eagle 107C however. Made completely in the USA, the Steel Eagle applies durable materials, unique handle configurations and even clever angles to make one hell of a cutting tool.
    First let us discuss the steel. Made from quarter inch thick 1095 high carbon steel, the Steel Eagle is almost guaranteed to have an edge that is capable of abuse, while remaining hair-shaving sharp. Usually this means the knife will be hard to sharpen, but not with 1095 high carbon steel. Compared to the so-called “super steels” out there, we know for sure from over half a century of trials in the field what 1095 steel can take. If anyone reading this is concerned about giving up the edge retention of their classic Marine combat knife rest assured, your knife is also 1095 high carbon steel. The transition would go smoothly!
    I like to test and review knives in practical applications. I won’t chop concrete, or try to fillet rebar. I will put the knife through realistic scenarios, in extreme cold, and wet weather. I will test every part of a knife individually first, and then follow it up with an overall test.
    The tip of the Steel Eagle is extremely strong. Unlike your classic “clip points” found on many knives, this tip is backed up with thick steel. The angles put into the tip allow deep penetration while not losing any of the Steel Eagle’s strength. I pounded the knife 2 inches into a pine log and twisted it every which way possible and found not even a degree of distortion. If I tried this with many knife brands out there, they would fail.
    The belly of the knife edge was well rounded, and I used it to prepare several fish with ease. When it comes to big blades, it is often difficult to safely and efficiently process small game and fish. The Steel Eagle 107C stood up to the test without any sign of difficulty. I used the belly to peel back the bark on a basswood, two poplars and a birch tree. All of which separated from the wood without hesitation from the belly of the knife.     
    The straight edge of the Steel Eagle and the handle have an interesting geometry which allows the knife to point slightly downwards. This combined with the weight of the blade creates incredible chopping power in a knife of its size. I would almost compare it to the power I find in my larger kukri. With three swift flicks of my wrist I fell a cedar that was thicker than my wrist! As well, the ricasso on the knife blade allowed me to choke up comfortably for more control, which allowed me to shape that cedar pole into a bow drill kit. The tip of the Steel Eagle bored into the wood perfectly, and the long straight edge sliced cleanly through the wood. The handle and the blade seem to balance perfectly at the ricasso, allowing me almost limitless carving abilities.
    The linen micarta handle was strong, and the slight curve of the spine of the handle allowed me that incredible chopping angle. It never felt uncomfortable in my hand, even while splitting wood. There were three holes drilled into the steel around the handle, which some may think allows you to lash the Steel Eagle to a pole and use it as a spear. However I found these more effective as lanyard holes for several different forms of wrist cords. The way the Steel Eagle is held in the hand, allows the one exposed corner of the tang to be used as a “skull crusher”. I used this point to crack several deer bones, and even used it to hammer a few nails while repairing an old fence.
    The sawback on the knife cuts through wood like a chainsaw, literally. After three swipes of the saw across an oak log, I had what looked like a chainsaw tapped the log. I went through several two-by-fours and felt like I had a good workout. This test is not easy with any sawback knife I have ever come across. But the Steel Eagle 107C handled it like a champ. The sawback ends about two inches behind the tip of the knife. This allows greater strength at the tip. Which means greater abuse can be lavished onto this beauty! The teeth are made a quarter inch thick, so they too will take quite a beating and remain just as functional as they first were.
    The sheath of the Steel Eagle 107C is well formed, with a deep front pouch. Snap fasteners or Velcro used to keep such a pouch closed eventually wear out or break. Instead of what the rest of the market offer, TOPS sheathes have a sturdy clip fastener that holds anything inside of the pouch secure. I would suggest carrying a sharpening tool, some parachute cord and even a mini survival kit. Believe me, the pouch will fit it! The belt loop allows greater comfort (no sagging down of the pants), and the multiple options for attaching the sheath to your person or to your pack makes it fantastic.
    Some people may not like the sawback design of the Steel Eagle 107C, regardless of how effective the saw teeth are. Luckily for such people, TOPS offers a non-sawback version, called the Steel Eagle 107E. Everything else is similar to the Steel Eagle 107C except for the lack of a saw.
    In general, I would consider the TOPS Steel Eagle 107C a very good survival knife, with a multitude of uses. I used her to construct and deconstruct several shelters; from as small of tasks as cutting cordage, all the way to chopping down the very poles and boughs that made the shelter. I used her to easily chop firewood, and even make a bow drill kit to start my fire. With such tasks completed in minimal time, I was able to sleep the night safe and sound in the Canadian wilds, all thanks to the Steel Eagle 107C.

Caleb Musgrave is a wilderness skills instructor from Canadian Bushcraft, with over 15 years of experience in the outdoors. He is a respected bushcraft teacher, and well known hunter and tracker throughout Southern Ontario.  

     Survival knives are in many ways drastically different from a "Bushcrafting" blade. In Bushcraft we expect to have multiple tools with us that can range as wide as small neck knives, parangs, axes and saws. In a survival situation, the concept of many cutting tools on one person is less likely, as a survival situation often involves having only minimal equipment such as a belt knife and a survival kit. That is of course, if you are lucky. In such circumstances, that one knife must be able to complete a great range of tasks with the least amount of energy. Seeing as my first actions in a survival situation are to make fire and construct a shelter, I often opt for a larger blade, for chopping and limbing poles, as well as for splitting firewood. However, this large knife must have a blade capable of being sharpened easily, and have a good enough balance for me to be able to shape intricate crafts, such as the pieces of a bowdrill, or the trigger for a deadfall trap.

    Many companies that claim to sell "survival knives" sell drastically expensive models crafted from steels that are basically all based on laboratory hype and well paid marketng. Often they are made from high-priced stainless steel, which though rust resistant, does not in my opinion take a good edge. Even many of the high-quality stainless steels won't take kindly to being sharpened on a slab of slate or basalt. Many of these steels have not had much field use, and have not been proven over time to be effective in severe climates, such as the Canadian north. The handles will often be made from plastic, rubber or similar materials, which though rot-resistant, will often fail in extreme cold. Seeing as my duty as a wilderness instructor takes me through my homeland of Canada, cold is a majour issue pertaining to knives. These blades rarely meet my specifications for a "survival knife".  

    TOPS Knives is a company that has a vast collection of models, ranging from small scalpel sized knives, to blades as large as a machete. Based in the USA, they cater to military personnel and over the past few years their quality of knives have grabbed the attention of many instructors in both bushcraft and survival. Until only recently I have only been able to handle a few of their knives, casually that is. I had not truly tested them out in the field. However, from simple casual handling, I knew the quality of TOPS was not overrated. After several friendly discussions with TOPS president Mike Fuller about his company's knives, I had several knives to try out in the great wilds of Canada. One of these was the Outpost Command. Made from 1095 high carbon steel, the blade arrived shaving sharp. The handle, made from linen micarta was fit well to the steel in a full tang. It felt heavy in my hand, but I could tell that the balance was definitely well thought of in its design. I came sheathed in a combat style ballistic nylon sheath, with a hard plastic liner to protect the sheath from the blade. Though I often speak out against cordura and other nylon-based sheathes, this model of sheath was -like the rest of the knife- well designed and well made.

    Testing began early one morning when I went to the wood shed and began chopping up fuel for the woodstove. After stacking a load into the furnace I returned to the wood shed and began using the Outpost Command on ash, maple, pine, birch, beech and countless other woods. At first I was batoning the knife through the wood. Batoning has damaged as varied of blades as Scandinavian knives, Ghurka khukuris and everything in between, that this test is often reserved for last. The steel of the Outpost Command is one-quarter inch thick, and due to this, both the tang and the blade are extremely strong. Add the well shaped profile of the knife edge, and the results should not be too surprising. So effortless was the action of splitting even the densest of woods, that I felt like the knife needed more of a challenge. Instead of using the benefits of the baton, I began chopping wood with the Outpost Command like one would do with an ax. Such a test is effective with blades longer than seven inches, anything shorter usually does not have the power or weight behind it to really "bite" into the wood. Seeing as the Outpost Command was merely five and three-quarter inches in length, it was doubtful that it would even pose a challenge to such a task. Not likely to be successful, I prepared for the knife to bounce off of the wood as most knives of its length do. And yet she split logs that were as big around as my calves! The thickness of the steel, once again coupled with the edge design allowed an incredible amount of weight to be concentrated into powerful blows. The action was like that from a tomahawk or hatchet. I felt the hair ripple on my arms and on the back of my neck in excitement.

    After splitting all of that wood, I wanted to see exactly what she was capable of as a general use tool, for detailed work. First I took the edge as is, and ran it through some of the hair on my forearm. She shaved the hair off of my arm as if I had just finished honing her. 1095 high carbon steel has been used in knife making since before World War Two, and has proven time and again that its durability, edge retention and ease of sharpening will keep 1095 as a leader in quality cutlery steel. I also checked the handle. The linen micarta had not sign of change, and it felt comfortable in my grip for chopping.

    So what? She can chop and split wood and keep her edge? Can she carve? Again, my prerequisites for a survival-oriented blade include both chopping power and the ability to perform smaller, detailed tasks. Nothing in my opinion proves a knife better than to make feather sticks with it. To make a proper feather stick (a method of effective fire lighting in wet or cold weather) an edge has to be sharp enough to bite into the wood, as well as be thin enough so as to be able to keep the shavings thin themselves. Most big knives leave big chunky fuzzes rather than shavings. As well, the handle and balance of the blade must be in such harmony that the user of the knife can maneuver the blade carefully enough to make long, curly shavings. Again, such a thing is difficult to find in a large survival-oriented knife. After the fifteenth feather stick was done to my satisfaction, I deemed the knife worthy of being an effective survival knife. However, I now wanted to see the practicality of the overall knife and sheath in the field.

    Most large knives either arrive with kydex or leather sheathes. These often are worn on the belt of the user, and slowly the weight of the knife, and the poor design of the belt loop on the sheath work together to tug down on the pants of the user. This is not life-threatening (usually), but it is uncomfortable, distracting and in extreme circumstances detrimental to your health (such as paying more attention to trying to hold your pants up than to the slippery rocks you are crossing). The ballistic nylon sheath that came with the Outpost Command has a wide belt loop, that seems to balance the weight of the knife enough that you don't really feel "pulled" by the knife. I think the best way of describing the weight of the knife is "comfortable". With multiple loops on the back of the sheath, the knife can in fact be attached horizontally, hung upside-down, strapped to a pack, etc. These features of a sheath are important in my opinion, because if you feel uncomfortable carrying something, you probably will not carry it often. If you don't have a "survival knife" on you when an emergency arises, than you really are up the creek!

    I carried the Outpost Command through thick cedar bush, limbing dead saplings as I prepared them for my task of the day. With video shooting and preparations for students, I had to get a few smoke signal tripods constructed. I figured I would use only the Outpost Command for all parts of the construction of the tripods. I limbed and cut down the cedar poles which were each wrist thick. I then proceeded to use the Outpost Command to cut down cedar and spruce boughs to use as the smoke producers of the signal. Signals are another key element of survival, for rescue is often needed in some form or another, and helping searchers find you can be vital, especially in the Canadian wilderness in winter time. So this is a truly practical test for a knife that would be carried in a survival situation. With the help of the Outpost Command I constructed a tripod in under five minutes. All with a knife that has a blade under 6 inches! These are tasks are often leave for longer blades, tomahawks or machetes.    

    After these tests I can honestly vouch for the Outpost Command as an effective and even top choice for a Survival-Oriented Knife. The overall design and practical applications that it is capable of performing are incredible. Other features of the knife I would like to highlight are;

·                     The spear-point is much stronger than a "clip" point knife often seen in bowie-style blades. With more strength in the tip, more abusive tasks such as prying, and piercing can be accomplished with more confidence and less chance of damage to the blade

·                    The curve of the cutting edge, known as the "belly" is gentle and gradual throughout the entire cutting edge. This means the edge is easy to sharpen on a stone. Also tasks such as food processing, as well as the field drersing and skinnilg of wild game becomes more efficient. In other words, consider this a great bridge between survival knives and hunting knives

·                    The knife has two choils, one on the blade, and the other on the handle. These "Finger grooves" allow multiple grips, stemming from a chopping grip, all the way to a precision-oriented grip. In other words, these help the knife become really functional

·                    The butt of the knife is bare steel, meaning you can use it as a hammer, a pry bar, and even a scraping tool. Again, more functions in one simple but elegant and well put-together knife design.

Caleb Musgrave is a wilderness skills instructor from Canadian Bushcraft, a company focused on providing real experience in the northern wilderness.

   The problems I often find with smaller knife designs are simple to fix, but very few ever do. This first problem is they are often made from a cheap stainless steel. Though there are several high quality stainless steels, most people opt for the lower quality stainless due to price. However, if they simply went to a low-cost high carbon steel such as 1095 or 1075, they would still have a low costing knife steel, and increase the quality ten-fold. Another issue with a small knife is that most designers decide to make them a folding knife. Folding knives are weaker and definitely poses a risk of closing on the user's fingers. However, a small knife is invaluable. First off, it allows more control when cutting or carving, making the production of tools more efficient, and the skinning and field-dressing of wild game (especially small game) more effective and safe. Yes, you can shape a deadfall trigger with a kukri, and skin a vole with a machete, but it really is better to do with a smaller knife. Also, a smaller knife allows for ease of carry. I can keep a small knife in my pocket, another hanging from my neck, and another packed away inside my survival kit or rucksack. Three cutting edges, yet barely any weight or space taken up.

     Over the years, I've used everything from Mora Knives, to Swiss Army Knives, and several other small knives. Moras, though great cutting tools, are just too big compared to a Swiss Army Knife. With my German Military model made by Victorinox, I have been able to carve, skin, fillet, whittle and even split wood. Until this year, this was my only option for a small knife. Functional and efficient, I haven't complained, except for when I have it close on my fingers. Swiss Army Knives don't often have a locking mechanism, and all of them fold, which makes them dangerous. Mike Fuller from TOPS Knives designed something that he felt would be the best friend to those who want to carry light, but not give up on security and safety. This creation was named the "Badger Pup", and was made to be the partner knife of the "Operation Badger", a larger sheath knife. Upon its' arrival the Badger Pup instilled a single sentence in my mind; "Man, is this small". Made from 1095 High Carbon steel, with G-10 handle scales, and with an overall length of only 5 3/4 inches, the Badger Pup is probably one of the smallest fixed bladed knives I've ever held.

    The blade is 2 7/8" long and was 5/32" thick, and has a profile similar to a Kukri or "Ghurka Knife". I at first rolled my eyes and thought "well that will be useful", due to the old belief that a forward-curved cutting edge is best made on a large chopping blade. However, the moment I tried it out whittling a piece of pine, I saw how well the edge shape worked. The forward curved belly of the blade, recurving back to the handle makes a well-controlled slice, peeling wood as if it was a crooked knife or spokeshave. When deeper cuts were wanted, the Badger Pup accomplished them without hesitation. I could peel apples, dice cardboard, and even prepared a few steaks for dinner. All without having to touch up the edge. The sheath is kydex and securely holds the Badger Pup, using a ball-chain neck cord to let it hang from the neck. However, I often found myself carrying the entire knife within the back pocket of my jeans while in town, and hanging from my belt loop when in the woods, using a carabiner to secure it in place. In my pocket was much more comfortable and unnoticed. Now this is what all pocket knives ought to be like! Secure, strong and sharp!

    Over the next few weeks in the field, I noticed the handle was a tad too small for my hands. Being six feet tall with hands over seven inches long and five inches wide, it is not surprising that any small knife would be a bit undersized. However, letting my young cousins and several female students handle the Badger Pup, I realized the true value. As a small back up knife for me, it was second to none. But as a primary knife for a youth, or a young lady, the Badger Pup was superior to any others. Although it was undersized for my big mitts, it accomplished all tasks with stars. I skinned several squirrel, and even shaped a pair of Inuit snow goggles -a crucial piece of winter equipment- out of a piece of poplar. I cut and peeled saplings for arch-dome shelters. I carved bowdrill kits and even shaped a small game bow with the Badger Pup. The recurve blade was incredible at gripping wood, peeling skin, and slicing wild edibles.

    To me, a small knife ought to have a good sharp steel, and be fixed blade. On those rules alone the Badger Pup already stands far ahead of its' competition. But the fact that it came with a high quality sheath, and is an incredible carving tool? Well, we're now talking about a horse of a different colour.. a colour never seen before. The Badger Pup is what a Swiss Army Knife wishes it was. Small and light no longer means that you have to sacrifice strength and sharpness. 

Before I go too deep, I want to make this clear. This article (for lack of wanting to call it a rant), is not focused on Abos, Bushcrafters, Outdoors enthusiasts or the like. This is geared more towards a person who has dealt with the wilderness in a harsh way.

I've done my own little expeditions into the wilds. Some with groups, others with classes, others on my own. The ones on my own were always the hardest, simply because I have a very vivid imagination. Once I think about an axe-wielding maniac, however unlikely, it is what I picture being behind my lean-to, or outside of my debris hut, when I know for a fact it is really the footfall of a mouse or grouse. That's part of the test I suppose. Not a test of manhood, but a test of wildness. Can you put away your primal fears to let logic and your true instincts kick in? If not, you may have done what I've done, and slept with your knife on your belt, or a tomahawk sunk into a bedlog within arm's reach. Not a coward, just sleeping with your bases covered.

We have all at one time or another been physically uncomfortable. It's human nature to say "hey, I'm not currently enjoying this". But usually we can grit our teeth and bare it until we can be more comfortable (it's what I did for my tattoos). Or we can bugger off and get away from the uncomfortable thing or things (like I did with most of my old schoolmates). Over 90% of those reading this can obviously go home to a warm, comfortable bed. I'm sure all of us when we were first trying this stuff out went home at 1 or 2 am saying "Screw it, next time I'll stay". What sent us home? Fear? Too cold? Too hungry? Missing of loved ones? None of them are shameful, they're equally the same, uncomfortable.

Most of the people who study survival and bushcraft are not new to the concepts of what is needed to survive. Fire, water, shelter, Positive Mental Attitude, and signals are basically the five things need to keep someone from dying within 72 hours. Food is useful, but not necessarily needed when those other needs have not been met. Again, we know this.

What really gets to a person? Simply, I say “The Wilds”. Other than exposure and dehydration, the only thing a survivor has against them is themselves. Panic, fear, depression, boredom, confusion and ego block the chance to enhance their chances of living by doing something productive. Rather, they sit by an ever dwindling fire, drinking untreated water because they are in too much of a hurry to properly care for it.. The list goes on.

Positive Mental Attitude to me, is accepting The Wilds. Not just saying “okay, I’m lost and in the wilderness.” But actually absorbing everything around you. The trees, the ferns, the stones, the birds, insects.. All of it.. Becoming for lack of a better term “One with Nature”. I’m not talking about spirituality, though it does play a part. I’m talking about opening those senses, accepting yourself as what you are, an animal, not in The Wilds… but an animal who is The Wilds. Instincts sharpen within hours of focusing on the natural landscape.. Even sense of smell can heighten.

Appreciate what The Wilds gives you.. For you’ve fought tooth and nail for it; If you eat cattails for a meal, don’t let a single piece burn up in the fire -you worked too damned hard to earn those calories- , and if it gets burned by accident, appreciate even the smallest, most charred morsel. A single drop of water can change your day from gloomy to brilliant once you begin to become The Wilds. The coarsest grass blanket, the lumpiest pine bough bed, become better than a goose down quilt or a memory foam mattress.

In a way, when you finally return to the modern world -whether you were only gone for a week, or a year -things seem different. A tap that pours clean, cold water is truly a revelation! Pre-made meals at a fast-food joint become shocking (and after a few meals of it.. Will shock you in the bathroom also). If you continue this trend enough.. Living as The Wilds, things change more and more drastically, but your appreciation and care grows just as fast and as severely.

I suppose, in a way The Wilds is Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. But it could just as easily be a rebirth. You could wake up at three in the morning in downtown Houston Texas, in the middle of Christmas and catch yourself swatting mosquitoes that are not there. You find yourself studying people in bars, not due to attraction, but studying their movement; how their tendons and muscles work to move and balance them, how they seem so ignorant of your presence -like a deer being stalked by you back in The Wilds with stone tipped arrows and an ash self bow -it becomes dark sometimes.
The Wilds takes. It takes your friends, who though not angry, will fade into the background. It takes your old life of comfort and warmth. It takes your feeling of safety in our modern civilization. It takes and takes until only a few things are left. No more warmth, just the cold. Skin and bones. Sticks and stones.

But The Wilds gives too; a sense of strength that never existed before. Heightening of senses and perceptions. The world, not just water, but the world, you could easily walk upon. You are The Wilds.. It is a very essence within you. You are no longer a being of false promises and make-belief comforts. You are strong as a stick, as durable as a stone. Your skin and bones are bark and wood. The Wilds gives more than you could ever ask for. Freedom, passion, love, strength, food, water, clothes, shelter -The Wilds is what is left.

Call it Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. Call it “Going Bush”. Call it a reawakening. Call it whatever you want, The Wilds is real. The Wilds is outside every door, and inside every person.

Tread Softly, The Wilds is upon us.

Caleb "Oz" Musgrave

The Wigwam is the traditional lodging of the Anishnaube People (The Ojibway/Chippewa Tribe). Two shapes of wigwams have arisen, due to materials at hand; The conical (tepee) wigwam was common all across the north, while the more well documented dome wigwam was seen in the south of the Ojibway territory.

In the north, where less hardwood is around, straight, dead conifer trees are common. In fact, one is known as the Lodgepole Pine tree due to its constant use by northern tribes as a building material for their homes. Sometimes reaching 50 feet in height, the lodgepole pine can often be found standing dead, towering over the jack pines, and balsam firs. Cree, Montagnais, Dogrib and many other northern Canadian tribes would burn the base of the lodgepoles, due to the lack of steel cutting tools. The hard wood of pine makes it very difficult to use stone tools on. So often fire was the method of felling such a durable tree. They would then use smaller fires to cut the poles to size.

     A tripod would be made, and another thirteen or so poles laid onto this until a frame similar to a tepee was created. The further north one goes, the more large birch are found. Also, due to the cold, the bark is often much thicker, leaving the northern Ojibway tribes with the perfect cover for a wigwam. They would use flakes of chert to make a vertical slit from as high as they could cut (using expedient ladders), to as low as they could cut on a tree. Using hot water, and chisel-shaped wooden spatulas, they would loosen the bark off of the tree, then lay it onto the tepee-like frame, starting at the bottom. Often, the weight of the bark alone would keep it in place. However, in windy conditions the bark would be sewn to the poles.

The southern territory of the Ojibway at one point extended from the St Lawrence River, down to the Ohio Valley, then up to Minnesota. Ash, basswood, maple, and oak often grew in this region, all the way into central Ontario (the heartland of the Anishnaube). The saplings of such trees were strong, flexible, and fairly rot resistant. Since straight poles were not easy to find this far south, a new form of wigwam had to be made. The Ojibway here (of the Chippewa, Nippissing and Mississauga dialects) innovated their beloved birch bark lodges into bent-arch frames. Once made, the frame would make a dome that could withstand the weight of two tons of snow, and hurricane force winds. Though birch bark was present, it was not as thick, or as large as it was in the northern regions, so the Ojibway (especially the Mississauga and Chippewa) would thatch cattail and bulrush leaves to the frame. Afterwards, they would add hickory or elm bark on the top, to help shed the rain, and cover the smokehole.

The dome-frame Wigwam is the best documented of the Ojibway dwellings, often being painted by early explorers of the Ojibway Territory. In Ojibway customs, the idea of “The Man of the House” did not exist. The wigwam belonged to the woman, and when a man entered, husband or not, he was expected to pay respects to the lodge owner (the wife/woman) no matter what his status was. If a woman was insulted in her own lodge, it was her right to remove whoever the offending individual was. This included such high ranking village members, as chiefs, medicine men and war chiefs. If a husband disrespected his wife, or a divorce was decided, he would be given his belongings, and leave the lodge. The wife kept the cooking utensils, the blankets, the wigwam itself, and any other lodgings. Only the man’s personal belongings (medicines, tools, hunting equipment) were allowed to be taken with him. Any items shared with the wife, and used primarily in the wigwam (baskets, fishing nets, birch bark vessels, etc), were ceded to the wife. This is perhaps why often marriages seemed to last in the Ojibway culture!

How to construct a traditional dome-framed wigwam (with modern tools, or traditional tools):

Wigwam materials needed:

-15’ x 1 ½”-2” Ash poles (16) Lashed together to make 8 arches (peel and dry in an arch frame, and char ends for 12 inches with a fire)
-15’ x 1” Poles (12 or more) Ash or Basswood, peeled and wrapped around frame to make a solid dome of poles. Also to tie thatching material to.
-50 Bushels (bushels are hug-sized bundles) of fairly dried cattails (seed heads removed, only leaves and stems, preferably no stems either)
- 7-10 large sheets of birch bark (3’ x 3’ minimum)
-Over 300’ of Jute Twine. For lashing together the poles, as well as the thatching and barking processes, traditionally, the bark from the basswood tree would be used for this job.

Tools Needed:

-Knives for peeling bark, branching, and other basic chores, traditionally, flakes of flint, chert or jasper would have been used for this task
-2 Axes, for pounding stakes, and other heavier work
-2 Machetes, for gathering thatching materials
-1 saw for precision cuts
-One burner (Long nail, with head cut off, pounded into a hardwood dowel)
-Post Hole digger, OR a sharp long pry bar (fire-hardened digging sticks were the old faithful tool for this job)

Steps:

1) Peel poles and soak for at least two days in the lake.

2) While poles are soaking, use twine and bark (from basswood) to make small bundles of thatch out of the 50 bushels of cattail leaves. Bundles should be 2” thick or so, try to keep them all equal in size. Let these dry in the sun (Or warm room).

3) Take the 16 ash poles, pair them up, and tie tips (narrow ends) together. After which, using stakes, bend into an arch (use same stakes for all of the poles, to make them all evenly shaped). If pole crack during bending process, cast them with jute twine. Allow to dry for at least two days.

4) Continue to soak the basswood and thin ash poles during this time, they must remain flexible.

5) Drive a stick into the center of the area planned to be the wigwam site. Make a 5 ft long string, with a sharp stick at the end. Drive 16 stakes into the ground at even distances, using the 5 ft cord to measure proper distance for each stake.

6) Use pry bar or post hole digger to make foot deep holes where each stake is marked.

7) Set arches into holes, and tamp soil down firmly (may have to drive stakes in to help keep the frame strong).

8) Salt the earth that is inside the frame. Plants inside can cause problems later on down the road (rotting of the poles, etc).

9) Wrap basswood and thin ash poles around, every 1 ½’ up the frame. Bend main poles where they seem to be sticking out too far, and lash the thin horizontal poles tightly to it.

10) Mark out the most Easterly direction and cut the horizontal poles between the two main poles there. This will make the doorway.

11) Begin thatching process, beginning at the bottom. Cattail thatch should be upside down, and tightly packed against each other. An easy way of doing this, is using one continuous string to lash the thatching on.

12) Once thatching is complete (to the last horizontal pole row), there should be a hole at the very top. This will be the smoke hole.

13) Shake the wigwam, to let the thatching fluff, and interweave from natural settling. This will make the wigwam more waterproof and windproof later.

14) Use the burner to bore holes along one edge of each birch bark sheet. Do this by laying the sharp nail in a fire, and blowing on the coals until the nail is red hot.

15) Use jute twine to lash the birch bark sheets to the second top, and the top rungs. These will help in shedding rain and the least angled portions of the wigwam. They should look like shingles. Keep the most intact, largest sheet from being used until step 16.

16) Make sure the largest sheet can cover the smoke hole, then bore hole along one side. Lash this side down.

(Above Photo; Author with a two person wigwam completed by following the directions. Photo by Tammie Adams)

After these steps, other little projects can be made to make the wigwam more traditional and livable;

A) Take a clay-like mud, and fill the center of the wigwam with it. After surrounding with rocks, coat them with the clay/mud too. This will make a durable, and efficient (not too mention safe) fire hearth.

B) Lash straight poles along the inside of the top of the wigwam, to act as rafter. These can be used to store bags of food, furs and blankets, as well, to suspend cooking pots over the hearth for cooking.

C) Weave cattails into a large mat. Make it large enough to cover entrance, and then some. Lash a heavy stick on the bottom end. When you want to open, roll it up and tie in place. When you want to close it, untie the mat, and let the weight of the stick and the mat unroll it and hold it in place. If pulled out straight, and held up with poles, the mat can also act as a sun-arbor.

D) Use strong thick cord (Plaited jute will work), to act as weights to keep the thatching and bark shingles in place during hard weather.

E) Weave willow mats (or more cattail mats) to make seats inside. These will help keep the moisture from the ground off of people.

F) Gather heavy furs (bear, Bison, even moose) to line wigwam for the winter, or for sleeping.

G) A hollow log at the four cardinal directions, should be fitted under the thatching, this will help with ventilation, and smoke issues. Make sure these are free of snow during winter time.

H) Smoke racks, stretching poles, baskets, fish traps and other projects can often be arranged/built, and worked on, to make the area more homely.

Altogether, a well made wigwam can take anywhere between a week or three weeks to construct, depending on the details added in. Spending a night in such a lodge is a truly spiritual experience. The poles woven together form this upside-down basket and you soon feel a melody of peace wash over you. It is one of many reasons such a shelter is a worthwhile project.

TOPS Shango

    An everyday carry knife is often the last discussed subject. Most people carry some sort of folding knife; whether it is a Swiss army knife, or something custom made. However over my years of experience in the woods and throughout daily life, I have found that folding knives offer many risks. The pin can shear under extreme abuse. The blade on many models can close unexpectedly onto the user’s fingers. As well, the knife is often made from a low-quality stainless steel. Though stainless steel can on occasion be made really well, often it is not, the company opting to go for a cheaper type of stainless than the high-quality stainless steels. At the other extreme, some makers use a stainless steel that is so pricey that it can seem intimidating.

    TOPS Knives found a happy medium when they made the Shango Knife with survival expert Joe Flowers. The 440C stainless steel in the Shango is strong, rust resistant and amazingly easy to sharpen! They used some of the best technology on the market to make sure the blade had a Rockwell hardness of 58-60. In simpler terms this means it holds an edge for a long time, but also is easily sharpened. I had her shaving the hair off of my arm within ten swipes on a ceramic rod.

    With most skeleton handle knives (basically means the steel of the knife makes a flat handle, without any wood, micarta, leather or other material to bulk up the handle) they are uncomfortable. However the Shango boasts a long, well formed grip, that was comfortable. This was true for my large hands, as well as the smaller hands of several female students I had on a cold weather skills program. With the lack of a bulky handle, the Shango barely weighs a thing. I carved for several hours using the Shango, and didn’t feel any hot spots on my hand. With three holes drilled into the skeleton handle, there are endless possibilities, allowing you to; lash it to a staff to make a spear, extend the handle for better gripping and even to attach permanent handle materials with rivets.

    For such a small blade, the strength is surprising, beating most four inch long blades I own. The steep belly curving up to a drop point leaves a lot of steel behind the tip, preventing most of the danger involved with prying. I used my shango as a wedge while splitting cherry wood with my larger blades. Even after twenty minutes of solid abuse, the blade doesn’t even have a degree of warp to it. Before the spine of the knife drops down, a small “hump” is formed, which is very effective for gripping in a skinning manner with the index finger. I used this while dispatching small game on a trapline, as well as when field dressing mammals, birds and fish,

Introduction

There are many schools of thought  regarding the harvesting, preparation and consuming of plants found outdoors. This article is not meant to discredit wild plants as a viable food source -which they definitely are- but to help the reader understand some inherent risks and help them gather safely. Wild plants are definitely of great value to the outdoors person, as a food staple, a tea, an herbal remedy or as a functional piece of their tools. But unsafe practices could jeopardize an otherwise enjoyable pastime or even the safety of the survivor. So to make our outdoor skills more enjoyable, some realistic outlook must be involved.

Even animals that are suspect of disease can in most circumstances be cooked well enough to kill any parasites or pathogens (this is not always the case, so please research and use educated judgement). Whereas an unripe Mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum )could cause an excruciatingly painful experience, cooked or uncooked.

It is believed the Inuit had (past tense due to modern diet) one of the healthiest lifestyles when it came down to diet. Their diet consisted of very little plant-life except during the summer months. Being mostly carnivorous, they consumed great quantities of protein, fat, vitamin C, vitamin D, calcium (via marrow and bones), and many fatty acids and other important nutrients. On the other hand there is great argument now that grains and other plants have such cellulose that the digestive tract of the human being is not made to break them down enough to gain full nutritional value. This explains how a raw vegetable diet helps the dieter lose so much weight!

Does this mean plants are useless as food? Of course not, but be aware that you must have very good identification of the plant before harvesting it. In summer the amount of blueberries (Vaccinum myrtilloides) that can be harvested from a single field is astounding. On the other hand anyone that has tried hunting moose (Alces alces) can attest that it is rare to find a large enough population to take your pick as to which one you will take home for dinner. Obviously the argument could be held that a moose feeds more people then a basket of blueberries, but the point is that the berries were much easier to find and harvest.

Poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) has often been confused with Sarsaparilla (Smilax regelii) due to similarly shaped leaves (though Sarsaparilla usually has five leaves, unlike Poison ivy which has three). While Wild rhubarb (Rumex hymenosepalus) has been often confused with Greater Burdock (Arctium lappa) due to similar growing habitats and leaves. What causes even greater confusion is many people referring to the greater burdock as “wild rhubarb”, which it is not even related to.

The only means of lessening the dangers of such misidentifications is to thoroughly learn the differences. Wild plant classes are better than books or videos, because the instructor/teacher can answer questions the student may have. As well, hands on practice beats words written by another person any day of the week when it comes to memory retention.  

Firstly is the fact that throughout history, the over-harvesting of any species has almost always lead to the demise and/or extinction of that species. Ask the beaver, and I’m sure they will argue that their pelts weren’t worth their almost complete destruction.

Secondly, many animals depend heavily on these plants, and taking more then we need at one time is dangerous for them. What may seem like a nice addition to a few meals to us is the only choice for survival to others.

Thirdly is the fact that what you eat now may not be there tomorrow. If we eat all the plants around our shelter, then what will we depend upon when after two weeks in the wilderness we are too weak to do more than crawl out of the debris hut?

Harvest conservatively, and only harvest large quantities when you have no choice, and can guarantee preserving whatever you harvest. Leave at least one out of five things that you harvest. That means if you find thirty leeks, leave at least six leeks. If you could harvest five hundred blueberries, leave one hundred still on the stem. This means the animals, the plants and you have a chance to survive another year.

(A perfectly baked loaf of bannock made in the dutch oven)

    About four years ago, I was working at a hardware store in my hometown. As an avid Bushcrafter, I was always looking at the products, thinking of what I could use them for. I had bought many axe handles, a few hundred feet of snare wire, and the materials I used to construct one of my favourite billycans (even to this day it finds its way into my rucksack). However, one aisle in the store always caught my attention for a moment or two; cookware. Stainless steel frying pans, copper lined pots, enamel plates, and ceramic crock pots lined the shelves, displayed for shoppers and clerks like myself alike. I always liked to see if there was possibly something in there I could use to cook with in the woods. One day while dusting these shelves, I found a box under several other boxes. I was in the mood to get really clean today, and decided to empty the shelves and give them all a good wipe down. As I lifted this box (and the inch of dust on top of it), I noticed the words “Cast iron”. A light sparked off in my head and I wiped off the dust, hoping to find a new frying pan. However, what I found was a large, heavy dutch oven, that was only a year old on the shelf (how that much dust accumulated I will never know). I could not find the price tag, but the employer still remembered the price, she was apparently a big fan of dutch oven cooking. I was soon to understand her reasons.
    I went home after cleaning the shelves, and while going through my old camp craft books, I came across a few pages on the “proper dutch ovens for the woods”. Figuring the subject was already brought up that day, I might as well see what makes a good dutch oven. According to the author, the best type has a flat lid, with a raised rim. Poor ones have a convex lid. This is due to the need to heap coals and hot ash on top of the oven during baking, the convex lid would just dump all of the coals and ash back onto the fire. A flat lid would let the coals be manoeuvred easily, and the rim would hold them in. Three little legs at the bottom would be useful, because this would help the dutch oven sit over the coal, without falling over (four legs, according to the author, is more difficult to balance in a pile of coals).After reading the entire chapter on wilderness cooking, and rereading the subject of dutch ovens and dutch oven cookery, I decided to pick one up, just to try.
    I went in on my day off, and examined the Lodge 10-inch cast iron dutch oven at my work. Identical to the descriptions in the book! That sold me, and my employer, being excited for me, decided to drop ten percent on the price, even though I had the exact money there with me anyways. Eighty dollars later, I was the proud new owner of a Lodge 10-inch pre-seasoned cast iron dutch oven. This variety has a ten inch base, and holds four quarts. While living where I was at the time, I never had the time to use it. So it stayed on my gear shelf, until we moved to the Kawarthas. While it sat in a box in the Kawarthas, I was living in Indiana, down in the states. While there, I mentioned to my girlfriend, with her father in the room, that I bought a dutch oven. Soon they were telling me stories that all revolved around their moments cooking with dutch ovens. Apparently these things had a huge following!
    The day I returned to Canada, I had some cousins visiting, and my folks were there as well, so I figured I would try out the dutch oven finally. I started up a fire of willow and cedar shavings, trying to get hot, long lasting coals. After about twenty minutes, the fire had burned down to a big bed of coals, and I set the oiled dutch oven on top of them. Being pre-seasoned, all I had to do was oil the oven. I placed a small venison roast into the oven, set the lid on top, and with a board of wood, scooped and piled coals on top of the oven. The amount of meat, in the amount of heat, it would be cooked medium to well done in an hour and a half. As the meat cooked, I added split willow around the coal bed, to make sure the coals would continue.  After the hour mark, I rolled out about a dozen small biscuits made from a bannock recipe of mine. Once the hour and fifteen minutes mark came by, I removed the roast and finished it in my cast iron frying pan. I dusted the bottom of the dutch oven with flour and piled in the bannock biscuits. In fifteen minutes the meal was completed. I had never had a simpler outdoor cooking session, it was easier then barbecuing in a lot of ways. I was hooked!
    Over the last few years, I have cooked many meals for myself, friends, family and even students with this dutch oven. The first thing I have to say about it, is do not expect to go backpacking with this thing. Weighing in at well over two pounds, and well over a foot wide at the mouth, these things do not pack lightly! So sorry ultra light backpackers, but this baby isn’t for you. However to those who love to use base camps, or even for car campers, this beauty is fantastic.
    While teaching and camping this past month, I had to feed six or more people at a time. We baked a black squirrel with it for one class of students. Another got to taste deer heart stew one evening, and the next night I inverted the lid to act as a griddle, and fried up two heart steaks. Finally, while a friend from Australia was visiting, we really put the dutch oven through the paces.

(Above; Black squirrel baked inside of the Lodge Dutch Oven)

    The first dinner we made with the dutch oven was a “bush pizza”. Simply bannock laid out flat, with pizza sauce, sliced cheese and other toppings, baked until identical to a deep-dish pizza. This was made perfectly. The next time we made one, I fried some diced up moose sausage on the inverted lid, and added it to the pizza, even better!
    After three days at the base camp, we spent six days deep in the woods. Of course this meant no dutch oven.  With constant rain and cold weather, and only pine, spruce and the occasional piece of birch or fatwood, the meals were barely anything special. Our attitudes dropped to nearly hating the out of doors, and  it wasn’t just our attitudes that dropped. With just six days in the woods, our diets consisted of approximately 800 calories per day. The difficulty of cooking, as well as the need to focus out meagre fire towards boiling water for purification and for warm drinks made us lose considerable amount of energy. I had been woods wandering for years, and have never had this much difficulty in one week to feed myself!
    When we returned to our base camp, we decided to try something; 90% of our meals had to come from the dutch oven. Temperatures and weather were similar to our 6 days of misery. The only difference was the plenty of hardwood available. The downfall to this, was that the wood we had around was mostly green, even the wood that had been cut and piled for well over a year. None the less, we gave it out best, and with several big, thick, beautifully baked bannocks, our moods were a complete opposite of the sopping wet messes they were up north. Another pizza was attempted, and on the final night, I emptied an entire bottle of cooking oil into the dutch oven, heated it until sizzling hot over a thick bed of coals, and taught my Australian friend an old Native American delicacy, Frybread! This night was particularly horrible, with rain coming from every which angle. Even with the giant tarp we had strung up over us, we both got fairly wet. But the frybread came out beautifully, and we decided to have another batch the next morning. This time however I would try something new. We had a bag of berries, and a jar of peanut butter. I rolled out the dough, piled a dollop of each in the centre and folded them like a perogi. This was probably the best breakfast in the woods I ever had.  

(Left; Breakfast of berry frybread)

    Tools for working with a dutch oven are simple. Tongs can be made in the woods out of a piece of willow. These help in frying, roasting and adjusting coals around the dutch oven. A scoop of some sort is vital for the lifting of coals on top of the dutch oven. Folding shovels will work, but I often get by with a flat board of split wood, scraping a pile of coals onto it with the tongs and using  the board much like a dustpan. Other useful tools are a ladle or large spoon, a hook to lift the lid with, and a blowpipe to help stir the coals back to life. Pot-hangers can help you adjust the amount of heat inside the dutch oven, by lifting or lowering the oven over the pile of coals. This helps when you wish to just warm-rise some bread, or deep fry some froglegs!
    The dutch oven is a fantastic tool for any base camp or outdoor classroom. I am an extremely proud owner of the Lodge Cast Iron 10 inch Dutch oven., and now a proud member of this unnamed dutch oven fan club that seems to hide among woodsmen and woodswomen. Anyone looking to expand their camp cookery skills, I suggest you pick up a good, sturdy dutch oven . If you are looking for one, I would highly suggest the Lodge brand of dutch ovens that they sell for camping. They even have a cookbook for dutch ovens, in case you don’t know where to start.

Tread Softly,
Caleb Musgrave

  
  I teach bushcraft whenever I can. Here in Ontario, the seasons are incredibly different. And each brings with it different flora and fauna to study, often in great detail. This past June, during the wetland bushcraft course was no different!
    Where we were camping, was on Rice Lake, on the Hiawatha First Nation reserve (Anishnaube Akii/Ojibway Territory). We spent a lot of our time feasting on cattails and milkweed pods, building fishing weirs, and often getting close to our local neighbour named Chelydra serpentina.
    Who? The name when spoken conjure up in my mind, some hideous dragonesque creature from the depths of the darkest waters. Very similar to the descriptions of Cuthulu! And sadly, that stigma often lands upon this beautiful cousin. The Common Snapping Turtle, is native specifically to North America (however can be found in South American countries as well), being found almost as far north as Hudson Bay (though not often further north than Algonquin Park).
    While on the wetland course, the students I had with me were very interested in studying these beings up close. Of course, the name alone was reason enough for them not to get too close! The snapping turtles were found on the banks of the marshlands, right along a backroad, digging nests in the gravel. Snapping turtles rarely leave the waters. Usually only the females leave their swamps to dig their nests and lay their eggs. However on occasion the adults (and young) can be found basking in the sun. Though more often they do this by floating on the surface of the water, often to the surprise of a bushcrafter who just fell out of their canoe...
    I carried an Australian styled fishing spear with me during the entire course, complete with an American Indian styled "Atlatl" dart thrower (didn't have the time to make a genuine Woomera to accompany the spear). This is a very useful tool when in the wetlands. I used the butt of the spear to prod one of the females we happened across, to demonstrate to the students her powerful jaws and speed. She immediately reared up on all four legs, which suddenly seemed a lot longer than I remembered a turtle's legs being. She emitted this strange hiss that didn't seem to come from her mouth, but from the shell (though it was from the mouth, the sound just seemed to echo from the shell). I prodded again, hoping to demonstrate how vicious of a bite these shelled creatures have. Nothing. I tapped the shell, hoping to watch her long neck (which can reach halfway across their body, and sometimes more) lunge out at the spear. Nothing. I rested my spear in front of her, and turned to my students to tell them that usually these turtles were much more aggressive, when suddenly I felt the end of my spear splinter with a loud "SNAP!", I turned in time to see her slowly bring her head back to it's original position. We left her to finish laying her eggs, and went on with our day.
    Snapping turtles are omnivorous, and will often scavenge any dead substance in the water, whether it be a dead fish, or rotted plant matter. However, they will actively hunt, feasting on small to medium sized fish, crayfish, mussels, insects, amphibians, rodents such as voles, and reptiles such as snakes and smaller turtles (including infant snapping turtles).
    Their relative, the Alligator Snapping Turtle Macrochelys temminckii, whom resides in the southern United States, is much larger than the common snapping turtle, however is not as aggressive as the common. The Common Snapping Turtle is recognized for the deaths of many goslings and ducklings each year throughout Ontario. Adult ducks and geese (even swans) are sometimes found with missing feet or toes, often caused by being maimed by snapping turtles. While heading to the bay where we would be harvesting cattails (Greater Reed-mace), the students and I came across a very large painted turtle, whose shell had a large section missing from it. Still alive, healed and scarred, this old girl was a survivor of a snapping turtle attack. There are countless stories of snapping turtles amputating the digits of people. I was raised with stories from my Ojibway grandmother who witnessed a boy losing a very large section of his heel to a snapping turtle he accidentally kicked while swimming. Though it seems unlikely that an animal that looks so slow could do so, their powerful jaws, and aggressive tendencies give good reason to steer clear when you find them.
    Being so vicious, has done some good things for the common snapping turtle. They cannot fully retract their heads into their shells, which other North American turtles can do. Because of this, they are left exposed, and in theory, easy to kill by predators. However, except for the rare otter, and man, Snapping turtles don't really have that many predators. I suppose the other predators learned long ago what my spear learned during the wetland course!
    As well, their diet supports their ability to survive in almost any water body in North America. Seeing as I named otters earlier as a predator of the snapping turtle, I'll describe what a park ranger told me when I was learning Bushcraft in Algonquin Park;
    Most lakes in Ontario, and North America, can support perhaps 2-3 families of otters (four to six adults, plus their young). The fish after that, will decrease in population, and due to starvation, the otters will have to move, or die. However, that same lake can support up to fifty adult snapping turtles, plus the hatchlings. Why? If it lives/lived, they'll eat it. And seeing as they don't need to eat constantly to survive, they can take long stretches between meals.

    Another interesting subject that comes up with snapping turtles and their survival, is their eggs. Ron Brooks, a professor of Zoology, was recorded in Norm Quinn's book "Algonquin Wildlife: Lessons in Survival", of doing research on the nesting and survival rates of snapping turtles. According to the book, unlike other species, like rabbits, which breed a great amount of young but have short lifespan, the mortality rate of adult snapping turtles is very low (disregarding human involvement that is). It is believed that wild snapping turtles can live up to 45-50 years, though this theory is hard to pin down, because after a certain length of time, the turtle's shell scales no longer grow. So measuring the age of the turtle becomes impossible after 45-odd years.
    Other species that live long periods of life (moose as an example), give birth to very few young. Often 2-5 in their lifetime. But the Snapping Turtle can lay up to eighty eggs in one season. Females will lay each season. The females can lay eggs for many years of their lives. So that is a lot of eggs!
    Odd though, is the fact that the mortality rate of infant snapping turtles is nearly 99.9% of them. Foxes, raccoons, vultures, gulls, ravens, skunks, large mouthed bass, pikes, and other snapping turtles all pose threats to the infants throughout their lifetime. This includes their time in the nest, where foxes, skunks and other critters will sniff out the eggs!
    And yet, the turtle's population has never seemed to naturally lower. I say naturally, because human involvement is lowering the population through; hunting, poaching, vehicle collisions with nesting mothers, and the destruction of habitat. But in nature, the snapping turtle populations never seem to lower. Nor do their numbers rise (remember, the babies don't often survive). So in a simple, dramatic way of putting it.. snapping turtles.. just.. don't die...  
    Mother turtles will travel extensively over land, to find the perfect soil (sandy or gravel, in warm sunny places) to lay their eggs. If harassed by vehicles, people or other animals, they will abandon a nest in mid-dig, and travel a far distance to dig again. I accidentally bothered one mother enough to make her travel deep into the bush, climbing over metre thick logs, and under fallen trees, just to find a new site. I tracked and followed her at a far distance, and once she found a new nesting site, I left her to do her business.
    Native people have had a close relationship with snapping turtles. When the nesting season began, Ojibway youth were sent out to prod the sandy banks of rivers, lakes and swamps with sharp sticks. Once the stick was found covered in yoke, the children would dig up the nests, harvest the eggs and bring them back to the village as treats.
    Fishing weirs were often found with snapping turtles within them, and because of this, they frequented the diets of Eastern Woodland tribes (Ojibway, Iroquois, and Menominee). Midden mounds found along the shore of Rice Lake had snapping turtle bones within them from long ago (well over 2,000 years). The meat -according to many Anishnaube elders- comes in seven different textures and tastes, ranging from fish, to tenderized lamb. It's a favoured dish served within the Anishnaube Akii (Ojibway Territory) throughout early summer.

    The claws are often found on necklaces, possibles bags, and medicine bundles. The body, including shell, head and neck, would be carefully sewn shut, filled with birds beaks, wild cherry stones, or even small pebbles or mollusc shells. The neck would be stretched out tightly (again, a long neck), and braced out to dry with hickory or ash splints. Wrapping the braced neck in rawhide, this item was used by many Iroquois holy people as a rattle/shaker. Other native tribes made similar rattles.The carapace (Top shell) was/is used as a bowl for soups (including turtle soup), and as a berry basket. Other uses for the carapace have included; shields used by some tribes during pre-firearm warfare (these shields can still be seen amongst some Northern Traditional pow wow dancers), and drums,. If the open side is covered with rawhide and bound tightly, a small hand drum can be produced, though the sound is not very popular. Bags are also made from the carapace. If the back is covered with deerskin or fabric, a shoulder strap can be attached and made into a very attractive possibles bag (smaller shells used similarly as belt pouches)
    The plastron (Bottom shell) was often scored with flint tools and broken into flat disks, used as pendants, pieces for traps, animal calls, and even as dinner plates. Other uses can include; Beads, goggle lenses (often seen by Malaysian cultures with sea turtle shells, which they scraped thin enough to become translucent), playing cards can be made from them. Simply scratch the numbers and suits onto the disks (Primitive Poker anyone?). The dried heads have been used as decorative pieces for "spirit sticks", and other ceremonial tools.
    The Iroquois and Algonquian tribes believed the world rested on the back of a snapping turtle. Due to this, they called their homeland "Turtle Island". Interestingly, if you look at a map of North America, you may just see this. Newfoundland and Alaska make up the front legs. California and Florida are the hind legs. Mexico is that thick serpentine tail. The arctic islands shape beautifully into the head, and the rest of North America is the shell. I find it absolutely beautiful how a native legend suits the geography that well.

  The Chris Caine Survival Tool (CC-ST)

Chris Caine is a survival instructor from the United Kingdom. He is well known throughout the country, through his school "Chris Caine Survival". Many years ago he was shown a design by survival legend John "Lofty" Wiseman for a knife. This knife was originally inspired by the Malaysian "Parang", a large blade not unlike a machete, but with a thicker blade and a more robust tip. Over the years he dreamt of this blade, modifying it in his head, on paper and eventually through computer programs with his sister company "Wilderness Essentials". After years of working on the prototype, he went to A.Wright & Sons, one of the last original Sheffield Knifemakers in the UK. Early in 2010, the prototype was completed, and he had in his hands the first "Chris Caine Survival Tool" (CC-ST for short).
    In 2009 Canadian Bushcraft -the wilderness school I work with- partnered with Wilderness Essentials and Chris Caine Survival to begin teaching their British students here in the Canadian wilderness. While speaking with Chris (and his colleague Matthew Lodge from Wilderness Essentials) the subject of field testing this modified parang in the Canadian backwoods came up. I agreed wholeheartedly to test out the Chris Caine Survival Tool in real outdoor settings, in real situations. After they ironed out the bugs with the first knife (such as changing the brass pins to stainless steel, and upgrading the sheath to tough but flexible 5mm Gun Leather), they sent me the fourth one ever made, and the first one to ever be on North American soil. Needless to say this felt like a historical moment to myself, though most of my friends raise an eyebrow when I compare it to the Armstrong on the Moon.
      I have been curious about handling a parang for many years. I have wielded machetes, goloks (similar to parangs), and even kukris. However the traditional parang had a few worrisome specs. First off many of the traditional parangs simply have rat-tailed tangs. These tangs are heated and bored into the wooden or horn handles, and usually epoxied in. Some are pinned into place, but not all of them. Without such a pin, the blades are in danger of flying out of their handles while in use and becoming deadly projectiles. As well, such tangs are very thin compared to the robust full tangs seen on many Western-made blades. This can break if strenuously used. For the native peoples of the South Pacific, the traditional parang is their lifeline, and they are trained since childhood with these long bladed tools. So it is unlikely that such failures happen often to these blades in their makers' hands. However, for a 6 foot tall Canadian outdoorsman who is known for shattering Nepalese kukris and breaking hundred dollar Swedish axes, I prefer having something more substantial to protect myself and my loved ones while I handle a tool. 

(Above Photo; Lining up a shot with the CC-ST on a willow sapling.)

(Below Photo; One Hit, one cut, the results of the previous picture)

    Chris -with his friends at Wilderness Essentials (Matthew and Robin) and A.Wright & Sons- basically canceled out any of the problems I could conceive a knife like this having. It had a solid full tang, complete with a conscientiously-harvested rosewood handle. The grain of which is selected at the highest standards the knifemaker has. The blade is 5mm thick and made from #75 Leafspring steel, which has been tempered to a Rockwell hardness rating of 52-54. All of that jargon means that the steel of the knife has high flexibility and strength, all the while leaving the cutting edge both durable and yet easy to sharpen. 

     The traditional parang usually comes with a wooden sheath, which is good to some extent, but can rot or fall apart (as my kukri sheathes all did). Chris opted for 5mm Gun Leather, which is some of the toughest leather you can get for a scabbard. And yet, due to master leatherworkers, the scabbard is comfortable and flexible, contouring to the body and not being a burden to wear. The Snap fasteners on the sheath are designed so that when you pop open the sheath, your fingers are far away from the cutting edge, yet still have control over the removal of the blade.
    All of this is good in theory. Chris, Matthew and Robin however went a step ahead and began beating around the woods of Great Britain with the CC-ST. Chopping, hacking, peeling and carving their native woods, they felt confident in the tool. But could it survive in the Canadian hinterlands?
    The knife arrived in February 2010, and I immediately put it to work erecting a shelter. Within an hour the entire hut was complete, and the only tool used to build it was the one Chris gave me. From there I began to split different types of wood, from cedar all the way to black spruce. None of which made the Survival Tool struggle. The northern Canadian woods have shorter growing periods than their southern relatives, this means for many species that their grains are much denser, making the wood tougher to cut through. Yes, some southern woods are incredibly tenacious, but anyone who has had to cut a few dozen tamaracks or some Canadian hickory would have to agree there is a close tie. I have to sharpen my axe at least once between each tree I cut down (approximately a 20cm thick tree, not a sapling of course). Even the high end axes -such as my Scandinavian Axe made by Gransfors- have to be touched up between cuttings. The CC-ST was used three weeks straight in the woods, and only needed the occasional swipe of a ceramic rod. 

(Below Photo; The CC-ST Parang slices through hardwoods effortlessly)

         I decided to see what it could do for speed one day while harvesting woods for future projects. I chopped through an 18cm Basswood tree in thirty seconds, ripping chunks out as if I was a Lumberjack. I checked the edge. Still sharp, but with such a soft wood that is to be expected. I went on to cut down a 50cm+ thick Black Poplar tree. These trees are tricky, though one of the softer hardwoods, they seem to be finicky to bring down. Within two minutes I had it felled. I checked the edge. Still hair shaving sharp. My eye began to twitch. Ask anyone that knows me well, and they will tell you my blades get put through their paces and I often have to treat them for their bumps and nicks. I take pride in being able to make any so-called unbreakable knife break. Though I don't believe in mistreating your tools, I like to know exactly how much abuse a tool can take. The minute I know what its' breaking point is, that is how far I know I can trust it. This thing didn't dull, and didn't struggle. Now I was just plain irritated. 

(Above Photo; Getting ready to split some firewood)

(Below Photo; Single Hit makes a real nice split, the results of the above photo)

    I looked around the woods for a while until one of my colleagues pointed out a pile of wood someone had cut many years before. I was well-seasoned cherry wood. This stuff is known to be full of knots when under 30cm thick. They're also one of the denser woods in the forests south of the Boreal forest. While I was alone (I didn't want witnesses to see what I was about to attempt), I arranged the cherry log how I wanted it. I lifted my arms to the heavens, both hands grasping the handle of the parang. I aimed, closed my eyes in fear (I don't advise closing your eyes while cutting wood) and swung down with enough force that even Thor would be impressed. If I had done this with a machete, I wouldn't have a machete any longer. If I had done it with my granfors axe, I would still be trying to get it out of the log. With one foul swoop I split the entire cherry log in half (well over a metre in length and well over 30cm thick). I checked the edge and cursed whoever invented this thing. Yes, it had dulled, but only by a fraction of what I was hoping. I chopped at the cherry until I reduced it all to kindling. I checked the edge once more. Now it was dull enough for me to actually require sharpening it.
    This all sounds ridiculous I am sure. Why on earth would a man be angry at how his blade remains sharp? Don't we like our knives being sharp? The main reason for me, was that I needed to see how long it takes to sharpen the knife, and I can't really do that when the knife is still razor sharp, now can I? As well, it was giving me this foreboding feeling. Usually if a knife doesn't dull this quickly, it means the steel is very hard, which means the steel is both brittle and also difficult to sharpen. However, from the abuse I had given it, I knew it was not brittle. Regardless, I still expected to be there for an hour trying to return the edge to close to shaving sharp. Five minutes later I was done. To describe how flabbergasted I was by all of this is truly impossible.
    The comfort and security of the handle, coupled with the balance of the overall design leaves little doubt in my mind that this knife is an incredible feat of genius, skill and talent. However, to add the durable yet easily maintained cutting edge, the strength of the entire knife, and the comfortable yet tenacious scabbard, and you now have something that cannot be explained in words of any language. Actually -maybe in one language. Among many native cultures in Canada and America, the term "Medicine" means many things; health, spiritual energy, helpful items, and power. Some of the greatest Native warriors and chiefs had "Medicine Bows", "Medicine Clubs", "Medicine Horses". Well, after over a month and a half of grueling testing, which included some of the most abusive work any knife I ever owned has experienced, I have come to a simple conclusion.. this is without any exaggeration a "Medicine Knife".

(Below Photo; The Medicine Knife)

Photos by Lucas Wagner; Canadian Bushcraft

Caleb "Oz" Musgrave is a wilderness skills instructor from Canada, who has practiced Bushcraft and Survival since childhood. Though he no longer just practices but also lives Bushcraft, he still considers himself a student of the field, and never a guru or master.  

A lot of old world clothes and tools can often be seen made into more contemporary items that are just as valuable and just as functional (and sometimes more functional). From the Polish Fokos Axe, to the simple Poncho, many items are becoming very popular in the realm of Bushcraft gear, and I for one support that. The more we play with old designs, the more innovations arise, and the more our world expands. It's why I love the modern interpretations of the "Nessmuk Knife", and even hybrid canoe paddles. To add to this beautiful expanse is an artisan and bushcrafter from Australia, named Alan Ainsworth. Him and I began talking to eachother online many years ago, and I have watched his crafts go from great to incredible. Originally from Scotland, Alan's Highlander pride went with him to his new homeland in New South Wales, and his love for Bushcraft and everything outdoors never diminished.
   

With this new land, and his traditional skills, he began making knives as a hobby, and slowly began playing with a leather that was more common in Australia than anywhere in the Northern Hemisphere; Kangaroo. With knife sheathes, little pouches and other projects out of the way, Alan went on to show some of his Scottish artistic skills, and began making Sporrans. The classic sporran in simple terms is a pouch that hangs off of a Scottish kilt, and does the job of being a pocket, seeing as kilts are usually (and I do believe always) pocketless. Made from fur, wool, leather and other materials, there are countless "models" of sporrans out there. That being said, it was a natural choice for a transplanted Scot.

    The sporran arrived within a month, and I was immediately impressed by the craftsmanship. I myself work with buckskin frequently, often making large pieces of clothing, so I can see the intricacies of most leatherwork out there. Alan's work was incredibly well done. I could tell he loved making his pieces, and this was shown clearly in the sporran. The folds were perfect and it seemed to be a perfect size for a belt pouch. When I opened the flap, I noticed the sporran opened up even more. It even had a button made from a leather turkshead knot which allowed the pouch to be opened and closed easily.

    I wore the belt pouch when I went moose hunting, it hung comfortably on my belt and fit a box of ammunition, a sharpening stone, water purification tablets, my hunting license and a plethora of odds and ends. With its' wide opening I was able to easily access all items, and relied on the pouch often to store small items I came across (garbage from other people, wintergreen leaves for later, etc).

    I again wore the belt pouch when I went deer hunting, and halfway through field dressing my deer I had to resharpen my knife. Bloody fingers are at first slippery and later sticky, and its' very difficult to open pouches or get items out of tight places. The turkshead knot button easily released the flap and I accessed my sharpening stone with no difficulty at all. After honing my knife back to a razor's edge I had to replace the stone back in the sporran, but with tacky fingers that was expected to be very difficult. However I again opened the pouch and easily tossed my stone inside, closing the pouch up with no effort. I was impressed later when I noticed the blood has stained the pouch but was washed off with little more than a wipe of a wet cloth. Leather usually absorbs animal fluids readily and are difficult to clean, yet the kangaroo leather was clean immediately!

    A few weeks later a good friend of mine from Australia arrived for a two week vacation in the woods. I showed him what one of his countrymen made for me and he liked it greatly. I kept my survival tin and many items inside it during our two week journey in the outdoors. After the first week, it began to rain almost constantly, and for seven days straight the sporran saw more wet than dry. Yet the leather never stretched more than a millimeter anywhere. I arrived home and forgot about the pouch and other belt contents in my pack. A week later I realized my mistake and dumped out the contents. My leather belt had molded, the flint and steel kit had rusted and my tomahawk had a heavy oxidized crust as well. Yet the Sporran was in perfect condition! I simply hug it up to dry and rubbed the leather soft with my bare hands.
   

I wore the sporran throughout our Canadian winter on several trips to the woods and on many a course. With frigid conditions the sporran never faltered, and got high praise from students as an attractive and functional piece of equipment. I agreed with them highly and have decided to swear by an Ainsworth Sporran any day.